Three interconnecting domes were constructed outside the Louis Vuitton Foundation for that show in Paris this morning. Guests took their seats on glossed benches coloured brightest orange and green as, all around, the daylight flooded in.
As the first model walked out - in an oversized white chubby that may or may not have been shearling, or may or may not have been fur - all in attendance could have been forgiven for ditching their own look and wanting to be her.
In only three seasons, artistic director Nicolas Ghequiere has created an entire new identity for this monolithic name. With her centre parted hair and kohl-rimmed eyes his Louis Vuitton girl is the coolest creature on the planet. She knows that and wears clothes and shoes and carries bags to match.
To describe M Ghequiere as influential would be an understatement: his work is amongst the most imitated in the world, from the catwalk down. The deliberately disorienting nature of any fabrication - what looks like lace turns out to be leather, what appears to be the easiest vest is quite possibly corsetted and so forth - confounds any copycats just as it always did throughout his tenure at Balenciaga.
At Vuitton, Ghequiere has said since his arrival, that he is intent on building a working wardrobe for his customer, offering pieces that can be mixed, matched and adapted to her busy and, it goes without saying, charmed life. This time around heavy silk satin trouser suits in black and silver were squarely aimed at those who like to dress with the minimal and masculine in mind. An oversized rib-knit sweater worn with a tiny, sparkly A-line skirt was for a girl who likes the best of world's both masculine and lingerie inspired pencil dresses, patch-worked in more leather and lace, would suit an equally pencil thin siren down to the ground. Suffice it to say she would stop the traffic when she wore it and this despite the fact that she is clearly so much more than arm candy.
The new Louis Vuitton bag was an oversized, gleaming silver record boxes, shoes and sock boots had a low or mid-height and slightly off stiletto heel...
From start to finish this was a tough and brilliantly put together collection from a man whose aesthetic is never obvious and whose instinct and intelligence only seems to grow.
Louis Vuitton Autumn Winter 2015 PFW
Louis Vuitton Autumn Winter 2015 Gallery >>
[Images: jason lloyd-evans]