J. W Anderson Autumn Winter 2015: It’s A Time Warp

Is the fashion world ready for the 1980s to return? With its preceding decade entirely plundered for inspiration over the past two seasons, it's no great wonder that JW Anderson - ever ready to throw down the gauntlet as London's foremost fashion challenger - decided to take on the decade that style tries to forget. In his deft hands this collection would perhaps hint at vintage but never be so lazy as to directly rip it off. 'I was never there in the 1980s. I was just a child so for me it's the Rousseau effect of the 80's. It's like my own faux pas of it, my own verdict of it,' he explained backstage. 'We have a bad feeling about the 80s and the 90s. What are we so scared about?' Well, nothing if he's in charge of it.

So for every item that may have whispered of this era, on closer inspection thanks to his highly technical fabrics and concentrated warping of standard codes (big shoulders were sans shoulder pad and droopy instead) - not to mention the mix'n'match approach to styling - JW pulls it back into the here and now... or maybe even further than that.

Those batwing sleeved-like smudgy jumpers? They were actually a jacquard and not a knit like their former incartions. Same goes for the lurex and lamés that were anything but the simple synthetic weaves of the past. The faux corduroy pants (actually more of a complicated velvet) tucked into knee high boots were as 80s as you can get on first glance - but the excessively ruched knee boots adorned with a chunky silver flower and made extra-wide around the calf and then the trousers not quite skinny enough to be leggings...

This season the esteemed designer had being individual very much his mind. 'I was interested in Soviet, the Berlin Wall, consumption, how we spend spend spend, about the individual.' So rather than arranging sets or series of looks, in the manner a brand usually does, each outfit felt unique and of its own DNA. 'I like the idea of whatever.'

JW's autumn/winter woman is heading on a glitzy and big night out but her whatever attitude doesn't mean outfit perfection is out of the window, it rather gives her a sense of freedom instead, and she'll still invest plenty of time into getting a look just right. A snake chain fringed skirt with a frilled blouse, layered over pants, paired with perspex geometric jewellery? A full knitted twosie with postcard intarsia, cinched at the waist with at chunky plastic ringed belt? Whatever? Never! There's too much hard work and vision here for anyone to ever brush it off such. As Jonathan well knows his collections generate both intense love and hate, so really there's never anything blasé about his boundary pushing aesthetic. It's applause all round from our camp.

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