‘I love playing with the identity of gender, never calling it into question. My woman is always feminine even when she is wearing a masculine overcoat. It can be perfect to enhance her seductiveness.’ So stated Ermanno Scervino of his collection shown in Milan earlier today. This was a happy and upbeat affair and one that translated many of the ideas that have dominated the season into clothes that were as easy on the eye as they were to wear. Take note in particular of...
1. Duvet skirts.
Or indeed just duvets. Quilting has been everywhere in Milan but this designer’s overblown skirt – in luxe silk satin and worn with nothing more obviously scene stealing than a skinny black poloneck - was as cute as it was snuggly.
2. Haute/humble.
The overcoats the designer spoke of came in military greens but were embellished with crystal embroideries at collars and cuffs and jeweled buttons giving the masculine wardrobe an ultra-feminine spin.
3. Houndstooth.
This iconic tweed came in many permutations and was also given a glamorous make over scattered with sequins that sparkled in the light.
4. Blue.
There’s a lot of it about for autumn. ‘I look at nature and I see blue everywhere, it is an intense and enchanting colour,’ Mr Scervino for his part said. From cornflower to Klein blue and navy… With brown, blue is the new black.
5. Jessica Stam. To say that we’re obsessed with this super’s return to the runways would be an understatement. Her doll-like features and sassy stance make her an absolute Grazia fashion desk favourite. Ermanno Scervino loves her too, so much so she was cast as the ‘bride’ who traditionally closes this show.
