Dries Van Noten Autumn Winter 2015: After Dark Dressing Turned Upside Down

Set to a stark and striking musical landscape of acapella versions of iconic female artist’s most recognisable hits, you could hear every rustle of brocade, every swish of a sequin, every photographer’s shutter and feel every kind of independent woman emerging from today’s offering from Dries Van Noten. This felt like a romantic ode to women – but without pigeon holing a single one of them. She could be glitzy. She could be utilitarian. She could be ready for a cocktail or heading out for brunch. As a lucky Dries lady she could be demure or daring, wanton or work-ready. From Rihanna to Roisin Murphy, Nancy Sinatra to Kylie – the soundtrack and the clothes harmonized beautifully. Mr Kanye West – who sat front and centre – doubtless appreciated the marriage of these two art forms.

So what exactly were these magical clothes? Well, first off, they were elegant to the end, but never unapproachable for it. Van Noten’s signature earthy palette of khakis and burgundies played the perfect foil for his clever twist on eveningwear and occasional jolts of baby-girlish spun sugar pink and sky blue. All of the elements you’d usually associate with dressing after dark (billowing capes and gowns, twinkling rows of paillettes, shimmering metallic cloques and jacquards, couturier-style peplum frills and more) were made casual with the addition of extra-baggy cargo pants, tomboyish jackets that were cinched at the waist (these are going to be immensely popular) and giant patch pockets placed onto sweeping floor-length dresses and skirts. These were clothes designed to be relaxed into, but that would never allow the wearer to veer onto the wrong side of nonchalance. They were also open to styling in multiple ways – a cape could become a belted over-skirt for example.

A hint of chinoiserie here, an unexpectedly shaggy furry coat there, feather plumage sprouting or a slightly puffed sleeve on just one dress, chunky cylindrical heeled boots in mismatched fabrics or the supersized corsage necklaces… These details were like bonus points, all adding to the idea that each of these looks can and will be as individual as the woman who chooses to wear them.

CHECK OUT DRIES VAN NOTEN'S FULL AUTUMN WINTER 2015 COLLECTION IN THE GALLERY BELOW >>

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