Deep Breath – The Corset Is Making A Comeback, All Thanks To Jodie Turner-Smith, Adele And Lizzo

Surprise! The corset is back. But before you press the panic button, consider this: isn't it the perfect wardrobe retribution for all those elasticated waists you’ve been enjoying for the past year?

Jodie Turner-Smith wore one over the weekend to appear on Jimmy Fallon (a fabulous, rainbow-stitched style from Christoper John Rogers). And then there's Adele. When the singer was revealed as the cover star of not one but two editions of Vogue, UK and US, people picked up on one particular garment she was wearing: a custom-made corset in brilliant yellow from Vivienne Westwood. According to global search platform Lyst, searches jumped 73% week-on-week (as well as the corset on the cover of British Vogue, Adele wore another one, this time a sexy black corset dress, from Dolce & Gabbana). And she's not the only fan.

Irina Shayk has been out and about in a burnt orange corset from LaQuan Smith. Lizzo's recent single, Rumors Feat. Cardi B, was a golden opportunity for both women to wear the most major corsets from Schiaparelli, along with surrealist gold earrings shaped like ears, in the promo material.

If it wasn't already obvious, this is not about going the full Merchant Ivory. Rather, the new-gen corsets are better suited to a social media moment than a period drama. You’re more likely to spy them with distressed denim and mini skirts than a bustle and a bonnet. Think sassy, think sexy (yes, that's back too).

Rihanna wore one to film her music video in the Bronx, New York, along with boyfriend A$AP Rocky. The python-print bustier was from Dolce & Gabbana's spring 2005 collection, and she paired its in-and-out curves with baggy brown trousers and a floor-sweeping coat lined with shearling.

Dua Lipa has been repping them all year, sporting three iterations from the queen of corsetry, Dame Vivienne Westwood, at the BRIT Awards. Billie Piper has opted for a heaving-bosom metallic dress from Magda Butrym.

Another Billie - Eilish - was even wooed out of her baggy uniform and into some wow-worthy lingerie, again, for British Vogue (searches soared this time too). And given the furore around the pics of Lily James in a criss-crossed laced top as Pamela Anderson (newly minted as an unexpected style icon) in the forthcoming Hulu series Pam & Tommy, you can be sure of one thing: the corset is having a moment, like it or not.

But would you, could you, should you wear a corset? Their history is divisive. Although the earliest versions dates back to 1600BC, they rose to prominence in the 16th century, remaining popular until the early 20th century. Designed to nip in the waist and shape the torso, to naysayers they are a symbol of female repression, a sartorial torture device that makes ‘killer heels’ look like slippers.

Certainly by the 19th century, there was increasing concern about their potential health implications, including deformity to the ribs and respiratory problems (when Kim Kardashian wore a how-did-she-get-into-that? Thierry Mugler dress to the 2019 Met Gala, she revealed she had to take corset breathing lessons from legendary corset designer Mr. Pearl).

And, yet, despite their restrictions, the corset has never disappeared from fashion. Indeed, to many, it has actually been a defiant symbol of female emancipation. Could you really say that Madonna – who made Jean Paul Gaultier’s corsets iconic on her 1990 Blonde Ambition tour – is a victim of patriarchal society? Quite. Ditto Westwood, who has made the piece a signature of her historical punk narrative.

If you’re still unsure about the corset, remember, the new-gen versions don’t necessarily require specialist breathing-lessons to get into them. Rather you can simply nod to the trend; a panel here, a padded bust there. The easiest way to wear is over a T-shirt. We’ve learnt to lean into comfort in the past year and there’s no need to forego all that now. But perhaps, perhaps, after all this time in sweatpants, breathing in might, ironically, bring a little relief.