H&M's designer collaborations quickly became a paragon of retail success, as collections created by the likes of Erdem, Versaceand Lanvin drew queues of shoppers and impressive sales to match. The approach has changed somewhat, however, as the Swedish high street brand now seems to have a quieter approach – something that feels much more appropriate for our current, uncertain times. This approach involves working with some of fashion's most interesting, independent designers on collaborations which launch throughout the year. So far, for example, 2020 has brought partnerships with Desmond & Dempsey – the British label responsible for luxury pyjamas – and now, the Beirut-based Sandra Mansour.
The launch of this collection had to be postponed following the devastating events in Mansour's own home city of Beirut, when an explosion on August 4 caused hundreds of deaths, thousands of injuries and widespread damage to countless homes – some of which are beyond repair.
For Mansour, who lives and works in Beirut, and who also collects so much inspiration from her vibrant surroundings in the city, it must have been devastating. Luckily, her collaboration with H&M meant that the brand pledged to donate $100,000 to the Lebanese Red Cross, which is working to support victims and first responders. The collections itself, Mansour says, is intended 'to talk to women around the world by sending a message of hope, something we really need right now.'
Mansour is renowned – and well-loved – for her romantic, ethereal aesthetic with a contemporary twist and this is very much what she has brought to her H&M collection. 'We really wanted to give this collaboration the true essence of Sandra Mansour by also staying true to the coolness of H&M,' she says. 'Each piece has a purpose and can be easily translated from day to night. There are point d'esprit tulle ruffles dresses, a mini wrap dress, a sunflower embossed caftan, a blazer, skirts, shirts, a t-shirt, hoody, and accessories that finish each look.'
Inspiration also arrived in the form of the sunflower and its lifecycle. 'It is a flower that depends on light and the source of light. During these very trying, turbulent, and devastating times, light is an essential part of our existence, this collection is an ode to that.'
Mansour was in Geneva celebrating her birthday when she received an email about the possibility of collaborating with H&M. Her reaction, she says, was to fly back to Beirut, unpack, pack again and get straight on another flight to Stockholm in order to meet the H&M team. And while this may be a collection for the high street, Mansour has created pieces that will last forever in your wardrobe. From black lace dresses for £49.99 to perfectly cut blazers for £39.99, this range may be affordable but it is anything but throwaway.
It's a tricky year to launch a new endeavour such as this, to say the least, but Mansour remains hopeful. 'This year has been a whirlwind really, I don't think anyone can put into words what 2020 has brought on. But I am a true believer that from dark places, good change appears. I am hoping in the fashion industry we become more aware and more conscious towards our environment. I am also looking forward to the subtle changes in fashion, which may not seem very evident now, but eventually will come to fruition.'