Loewe’s Most Iconic Bag May Be 10 Years Old – But It’s Better (And More Relevant) Than Ever

By now, the phrase 'It bag' is so overused that it's lost all meaning. From the Fendi Baguette to the Chloé Paddington, we're all extremely familiar with the bags which have generated the most hype at any given moment – just like Gucci's new Giglio bag – and become classic investment pieces in their own right. One which has been in existence for a far shorter time than, say, a Chanel 2.55 or Louis Vuitton's Speedy is Loewe's Puzzle bag. It may be younger, but its influence is far-reaching and undeniable, especially as this year marks the accessory's 10th anniversary.

This anniversary, coupled with the news that Jonathan Anderson is leaving Loewe to take the helm at Dior, suddenly brings into focus the sheer 'It-ness' (sorry) of the Puzzle bag, which on its own acts as the perfect embodiment of Anderson's success at the Spanish label; it's innovative and fresh, but with strong commercial appeal. It may be difficult to remember when Loewe was a flailing heritage Spanish house but that was certainly the case when Anderson joined the brand, where he proceeded to reverse its fortunes and transform it into one of the world's most influential labels. The Puzzle, with its geometric leather panels and top handle, was one of his first accessories for Loewe – and the first new bag the label had launched since the 1980s. Since then, it has become a favourite of everyone from Beyoncé to Sienna Miller to Ayo Edebiri.

Each Puzzle bag is handmade in Madrid using 75 separate pieces of leather, and there are numerous techniques involved, all of which take nine hours to produce the finished article. It is, in many ways, a feat of craftsmanship, which is what's always been at the heart of Anderson's work – both for Loewe and for his own eponymous label.

Naturally, such a feat deserves celebration, which is why a capsule collection has launched, featuring re-editions of the most iconic Puzzles of the past 10 years – plus one new design. It's something you can see IRL if you happen to be near Harrods this month (until 22nd June), where you'll find a special pop-up dedicated to a decade's worth of Puzzle.

From painted landscapes to embroidered leather and trompe l'oeil details, this collection of 19 re-editions is proof, if it were needed, that Loewe has returned to its 19th century glory as a leading workshop of leather goods; one which prioritises the most innovative craft techniques.

Puzzle fans will recognise most of the bags, which are inspired by the likes of William Morris and William De Morgan, both leading figures of the Arts and Craft movement in the 19th century. One style is new, though: The Confetti. It is decorated with thousands of tiny leather and metal sequins, maintaining the classic Puzzle cuboid shape, which looks as though it were folded like a piece of origami art.

Of course, the Puzzle – particularly the re-editions – is an investment but, if you're in search of a designer handbag that will truly stand the test of time, Anderson's creation for Loewe still looks as cutting-edge today as it did 10 years ago. Plus, with the designer now at Dior, this is your last chance to invest in Anderson-designed Loewe. Well, unless you know how to win Vinted, that is.

Shop: The Best Loewe Puzzle Bags

Hannah Banks-Walker is Grazia's head of fashion commerce. She has previously written for the likes of Harper's Bazaar, The Financial Times, Glamour, Stylist, The Telegraph, Red, i-D and The Pool on everything from fashion to curly hair (hi!) to the patriarchy. Not necessarily in that order. Find her on Instagram and Twitter. But please don't look for her MySpace profile, which until now was the last time she wrote about herself in the third person.