His Dark Materials Is Providing Some Unexpected (But Very Welcome) Style Inspiration

Philip Pullman's His Dark Materials trilogy is revered by readers both young and old. The author concocted a magical world that attracted a loyal fanbase, which is still very much apparent today – 24 years after the first book, Northern Lights was published in 1995. There has been, therefore, almost fervent anticipation of the BBC's new adaptation of the trilogy into an eight-episode series, which can currently be seen on BBC One on Sunday nights. Whether or not you're a fan of the novels, there's one very good reason why you should watch: the costumes.

Designed by Caroline McCall, a costume designer who has previously worked on Downton Abbey, it's Ruth Wilson's outfits for the character of Mrs Coulter that are the most arresting. Glamorous, glossy and with a vintage vibe, Mrs Coulter's costumes range from long silk dresses to neat, tailored suits, all imbued with the spirit of Old Hollywood glamour.

'It was interesting trying to think of who she is and what she looks like,' said Wilson at a press screening before series one aired. 'Hedy Lamarr features in my head quite a lot, I think it’s because when I was talking to Caroline McCall who designed all our amazing costumes, we were discussing the idea that the story is not period but it’s not our world, it’s somewhere in between. We came up with this idea of 30s-slash-40s style.'

Interestingly, this comes hot on the heels of the AW19 catwalks, which were permeated by a prim-and-proper mood with undertones of old-fashioned glamour. The tactile fabrics that dominate Wilson's on-screen wardrobe reference some of this season's biggest trends of velvet and satin.

'Philip had written a woman that is very archetypal in some way to how a glamorous woman would stand out in a male's world,' said Wilson. 'People stop in the streets to look at her. She makes an impression wherever she goes. I think that's really important: she has to look a certain way. She likes being looked at and she likes having that power.'

There's also a sense to these clothes that they're built to last – their timelessness indicates that they're anything but transient, a refreshing quality in the midst of the planet's ongoing battle with fast fashion. Last night's episode even featured some beautiful sleepwear in the form of Mrs Coulter's silk dressing gown – proof that fabulous pyjamas will make you feel exponentially better than those old joggers we all save for substitute PJS.

While you may want to avoid taking literal cues from Ruth Wilson's on-screen clothes, lest you become too costumey, there are plenty of contemporary options that will give you the same sort of feeling. From velvet party dresses to tailored dresses and fitted suits, there's a wealth of pieces on offer at the moment that feel built to last – and suitably glamorous.

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