‘This song is dedicated to women everywhere,’ boomed the soundtrack at the Versace show in Milan last night. It looked great. Army green tailoring with its roots in menswear was given a suitably glamorous makeover sculpted at the waist and cinched with a sporty stripe and, of course, a glossy enamel Medusa head closure. Boucle wool tweed in equally utilitarian shades was softened with a raw chiffon age but was equally high on sex appeal: think a pencil skirt with a thigh-high split.
The house’s designer, Donatella Versace, has long had a love affair with animal print and this season that was particularly prevalent. In colours brighter than nature ever intended, leopard and zebra collided across silk bomber jackets, polo and sweatshirts, long, lean trousers and the sort of liquid, floor-length gown this label is known and loved for. Fierce.
‘This is a collection for the way women live their lives today, mixing tailoring with sportswear and effortless glamour,’ Donatella stated, neatly summing up the mood.
As they strode around the vast warehouse space in rubberized platform heeled ankle-strap sandals fastened with safety buckles, carrying embellished backpacks and tie-handle bags that looked as luxe as they did youthful, models appeared as confident as they did womanly. The sporty, stripped back urban vibe was a clear departure for this storied name but the glossy, body-conscious, and leggy glamour it has always upheld resonated throughout. Ms Versace’s is an empowered and energised aesthetic and this especially strong collection will find its way everywhere from the boardroom to the red carpet before long.