Crystal Ears And Jelly Feet At Simone Rocha

Six months ago now Simone Rocha visited Tokyo to build an installation for Dover Street Market, Ginza. She then travelled to Kyoto and 'got inspired - but there was this trippy vibe the whole time'. Only later the designer discovered she was pregnant: she is due to give birth to her first child in November.

Japan, then, was the central theme to the lovely collection she showed in London this afternoon, from vintage kimono prints embroidered on tulle or woven to obi sashes in neoprene sponge. She has used this material before and it suits the sculptural nature of her designs well.

'I didn't want it all to be soft,' she said of tailoring in that same fabric. 'I wanted there to be a harder element too.'

It's five years since Simone graduated from the Central Saint Martins MA course and in that time she has carved a niche for herself as designer of hyper-feminine clothes but always with an edge. In this instance the sweet, floral dresses she is known and loved for came overlaid with crocheted silicone bodices that sprouted ropes from behind. Signature perspex heeled brogues, equally, coolly undercut any prettiness as did - new this season - jelly shoes. More conventionally glamorous, meanwhile, were oversized crystal earrings that sparkled in the lights when models walked.

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