After weeks of feverish speculation, Miuccia Prada announced today in a press conference that Raf Simons will join forces with her as co-creative director of Prada. In an unprecedented move for the brand, the two ‘will share equal responsibilities for creative input and decision-making,’ according to an official statement released following the show.
The two have long shared an admiration for one another with fashion sleuths citing an interview they both did in System Magazine three years ago as early proof of things to come. 'One thing that I would really love to do is to work with Raf, and maybe with other people – it would be so much fun,' she said. 'If I could do a show with him, imagine how much fun we would have.'
The move will be an exciting return to Italy’s fashion calendar for Raf, who last showed in Milan as creative director of Jil Sander from 2005 to 2012. The two will show their first collection in September.
Milan Fashion Week
Milan Fashion Week AW20: Everything You Need To See
Gucci's Quiet Spectacle
Alessandro Michele wanted to celebrate the 'ritual' of the fashion show and so opened Milan Fashion Week with something of a bang. As ever, the collection felt eccentric and individual, underpinned by a strong sense of narrative rooted in dreams. Aside from the overtly religious references (he said ritual – and meant it) there were impressive gowns that brought to mind Moulin Rouge, while there was a nod to the ever-prevalent oversized collars we saw at Chanel Haute Couture. The show was set in the round, made to make the audience feel immersed in the backstage environment. As a result, it was a spectacle to behold, which was befitting of the clothes themselves.
Alberta Ferretti's New Tailoring
If you want to know how to wear your tailoring next season, I'd follow where Alberta Ferretti leads if I were you. The designer may have become synonymous with ethereal, trailing gowns but there was none of that to be seen here. Instead, there was a defiant attitude seen in powerful silhouettes and a multitude of trousers tucked into boots (in the new way). That's not to say there wasn't any romance – that was present in the softness of a leather two-piece; a ruffled collar; a violet dress made entirely of ruffles. This was Alberta Ferretti for a new era. And it's one in which women wear the trousers.
Jil Sander's Understated Elegance
There's a lot to be said for elegant, understated clothes made beautifully. This is the very essence of Jil Sander, which is surely the antithesis of our Instagram age that's so saturated with images vying for their place in our short-term memories. Of course, to fully appreciate the craftsmanship and care that goes into these clothes, one would need to see them up close but suffice to say they are the sorts of pieces that become the unsung heroes of any wardrobe. From flattering coats and impeccably cut blazers to the suggestion of a frill on collars and cuffs alike and an intelligent use of texture, Lucie and Luke Meier – creative directors of Jil Sander – are to be underestimated at your peril.
Max Mara's Camel Coat 2.0
Max Mara always has an iteration of its classic camel coat. This season belonged to the hooded anorak, in chic AF copper brown, which was distinctly hillwalker in aesthetic. Since moaning about the weather is our national pastime, we say it's a safe investment come September.
Fendi Borrows From Bob The Builder
Fendi gave us a high-fashion tool belt on its autumn catwalk. Designed in collaboration with cult accessories label Chaos, the itsy-bitsy 'devices' included smart phone pouches, lanyards and chain-link bracelets hanging with alphabet charms. What a way to go hands-free next season.
Prada's Librarian Chic Dressing
Whatever Miuccia Prada designs, women want to wear. Case in point, this autumn's 'librarian chic' collection, working as strong proof that women can be feminine and powerful. Expect the fringed skirts, sweatervests, button-down shirts, neckties, patent Mary-Janes and low-slung shoulder bags to sail straight to top of editors' wishlists.
Moschino's Marie Antoinette Moment
Even if you weren't sitting front row at Moschino, you couldn't miss the 'Let Them Eat Cake!' comments flooding Instagram. Jeremy Scott is the master of putting on a show, after all, so for autumn dressed his models as tiered and iced confections in delectable candy colours. Marie Antoinette, eat your heart out.
Tod's Does Statement Tights
Get a jump on September's biggest trends by trying the colour pop tights situation at Tod's. That's right, black opaques are now officially boring.
Bottega Veneta Does (Beyond) Fabulous Fringing
Whatever Daniel Lee designs, every influencer and editor will be buying come autumn. Our prediction is that the fluffy coats with tentacle-like hems, not to mention the fabulously fringed woven clutches, will have sell-out status in September.
Versace Works The Print Clash
You can always count on Donatella Versace to deliver something energy-inducing. Cue print clash looks, where psychedelic polo necks were layered under zebra-striped dresses, that made editors sit up and smile.
Boss Does Dreamy Colour combinations
The colour combinations at Boss were simply sublime. Our favourite grown-up pairing? Lavender and sand.
D&G Does Snuggy Over Sexy
Milan's sexiest brand had a modest moment for autumn. The models came swathed in supersized sweaters, scarves, hoods and, would you believe it, leg-warmers. You know where to go in the next polar vortex.
Giorgio Armani Cancels Show Last-Minute
Giorgio Armani, slated for Sunday afternoon, was cancelled last-minute because of the coronavirus, but the show, nevertheless, went on. The models walked in an eerily empty theatre and the results were live-streamed to the world outside in what was the latest example of how the disease's spread is affecting the fashion industry. The clothes, it goes without saying, were classic with welcome accents of lime, pink and blue against sumptuous black.