The FROW in New York is not known for their enthusiastic clapping. Perhaps it's down to a heaving schedule and a large percentage of shows having more looks thank your average – and therefore a longer catwalk. Maybe it’s the curse of the all-important finale phone snap, but applause is generally saved until the very last second, when a designer takes his or her bow.
Every now and then there's a collection so brimming with energy and verve and adventure and heat that crowds can’t help but flout the usual behaviour with uproarious applause and beaming smiles. Proenza Schouler generated this outcome - even in the tricky slot of the last, late show of the day. Eds left with a spring in their step and a desire to see it all over again. Last season was excellent but SS16 continues to raise the ultra-luxe bar in an already successful story for designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. So take note: these clothes are going to be some of the hottest tickets next season.
Literally scorching. You could feel the Cuban heat emanating from each and every structured ruffle or the boys' impactful combination of red white and black. Even Proenza's polka dots packed a big, sexy punch thanks to the way they were spliced together and then cut away to expose tempting slices of skin underneath. The Hispanic hallmarks were all referenced (the designers holidayed on the island earlier this year and Hernandez’s heritage also leads back to here), but nothing about this charged line up was traditional in any sense of the word.
Craftsmanship was still key, however, but it was used in the most fascinating ways: jumbo fishnet dresses created out of feathers, on paper, sound impossible to produce and looked impossibly beautiful to match. They even made off-white swingy tailoring feel like a hot and steamy, passionate proposition. Crochet frocks were asymmetrically frilled in some places and completely peekaboo in others, lending the kind of unpredictable silhouette that you want to see from every angle. And we are certain we will when the street style mavens of this month-long fashion fest clamor to wear them next year... or sooner if they're really lucky.