Sure, it might be the first lap in the month-long run of shows, but New York Fashion Week, which is happening right now, is setting the tone for 2017. As the clothes won’t be able in stores for at least another six months, some would say it’s too early to predict which trends will actually stick. But, a quick scroll back through this week’s autumn/winter 2017 collections and instantly 12 strong statements are revealed.
Overall, it looks like the coming season is remarkably wearable as most labels left grandeur and ostentatious signs of wealth at the door. However, don’t go thinking this was a week of subtle minimalism. Because it wasn’t. The mood was definitely and directly anti-Trump. Between the Council of Fashion Designers of America giving out pro-Planned Parenthood badges, models and designers wearing solidarity white handkerchiefs and designers mocking the President, it was one hell of a ‘woke’ week. The shows were still mega-watt affairs with Paris Hilton walking at Christian Cowan and the ‘hot convict’ (remember him) making his catwalk debut at Phillip Plein. That all aside, here are the 12 trends you need to get to actually know now.
1. Political and Proud
Who: Prabal Gurung, Public School, Jeremy Scott, Rachel Antonoff, Tome, Gypsy Sport, Calvin Klein Collection
Raf Simon’s debut Calvin Klein collection was an ode to Americana. In a time, terse with partisan unrest, Simons – an émigré to the US himself - synthesised the aesthetic of a nation made of immigrants; he lined jackets with traditional quilts, riffed on cowboy silhouettes and even tailored a skirt out of the American flag. Public School were more outspoken with their anti-Trump agenda with caps and tops emblazoned with the slogan as: ‘Make American New York’. Prabal Gurung and Rachel Antonoff used their collections to campaign for women’s rights. Rachel littered hers with symbols of female anatomy and tampons while Bella Hadid closed the Prabal Gurung show in a t-shirt writ large with the phrase: ‘The Future is Female’.
2. Overloading on Ochre
Who: Diane Von Furstenberg, Altuzzara, Prabal Gurung, Creatures of Comfort, Jason Wu, Milly, A Détacher, Monse, Calvin Klein Collection
From highlighter bright to warm saffron, a yolky wash colours autumn’s collections. Silhouettes of the season – like stomp boots and velvet gowns – come in tawny sand, gold, and blonde. Tome’s asymmetric dress looked like liquid gold as it sashayed down the catwalk, Monse’s knotted top shone over leather trousers, and Prabal Gurung made the citrus shade soar with a tea dress layered over an oatmeal polo neck and white tights.
3. Magpie Meet the New Metallics
Who: Prabal Gurung, Sies Marjan, Area, Gyspy Sport, Eric Schlösberg
Looking (very far) ahead to NYE, shimmering silvers, pearlescent fuchsia and molten gold are already catching our eyes. In the hands of Eric Schlösberg, leather flares are gilded, and over at Sies Marjan, biker jackets are made of a hot pink metallic yarn.
4. Develop a Crush on Velvet
*Who: Tome, Rachel Antonoff, Self-Portrait, *Monse
There’s no running away, this was one of the most tick boxed trends of the shows so far. In rich jewel colours, this tactile textile became a designer shortcut for luxe. Monse and Tome used draping to give the weighty fabric movement while Rachel Antonoff neutralised its after-dark nature by tailoring sportswear hoodies and track pants out of it.
5. Deep Dive into Vermillion
Who: Rosetta Getty, Area, Dion Lee, Ryan Roche, Jill Stuart, Eric Schlösberg, Monse, Calvin Klein Collection, The Row
Brilliant red shades burned a poker of fire through the NYFW catwalks. Mirroring the incensed mood of the season, Ryan Roche sent out scarlet and oxblood head-to-toe looks; Eric Schlösberg tailored sizzling ra-ra skirts and frilled blouses and Dion Lee set the week alight with flaming orange-y red hoodies worn under fur jackets,
6. Tot up the Checks And Balances
Who: Jenny Packham, Tome, Public School, Victoria Beckham, Jeremy Scott, A Détacher, Rachel Antonoff, Creatures of The Wind
Since the seventies, tartan has been a byword in punkish rebellion. As fashion has turned more outwardly political this season it’s only natural that this fabric, which is synonymous with catwalks rebels like Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen and the grunge movement, has taken centre stage once again. At Jenny Packham, long skirts flowed in sky blue and caramel check, at Public School moody navy tartan coloured an oversized flannel shirt, at Victoria Beckham it became more Teresa May-friendly in the shape of a cobalt blazer, and at Jeremy Scott it became a coded motif patterning knickers and suits alike.
7. Wishlist Next Level Net
Who: Gypsy Sport, Jeremy Scott, Eric Schlösberg, A Détacher, 3.1 Phillip Lim
Gypsy Sport and 3.1 Phillip Lim proved there is more to fishnets than tights. When tailored into a long sleeve top with diamante embellishment at Jeremy Scott it adds glitz to a dungaree dress while at 3.1 Phillip Lim it plays a game of hide and seek in oversized mauve under a short-sleeve top.
8. School Uniform Stripes Are Back
Who: Jil Stuart, Eric Schlösberg, Adam Selman
Whether you want to or not, relive your school days with suits and blazers laced with school uniform stripes. Regatta colours of burgundy and navy blue have been softly tailored by Jil Stuart, Eric Schlösberg and Adam Selman into looks that will have you sent straight to the headmaster’s office.
9. Get Down with Discreet Power Dressing
Who: Calvin Klein Collection, Rosie Assoulin, The Row
Forget what you know about workwear because this season it’s not about power suits and kitten heels. Calvin Klein, Rosie Assoulin and The Row agree it’s all about the tonal tuck.
10. Namecheck Princely Prints
Who: Jason Wu, Self-Portrait, Calvin Klein Collection, Alexander Wang, Rosie Assoulin
Prince of Wales check is intensely wrought into tailored suits, dresses and high waist trousers. At Rosie Assoulin it became a frilled asymmetric suit that set the tone for this royally-approved textile. Twisting the mannish tailored weave into something undeniably feminine, Raf Simons cut it into a double-breasted coat while Self-Portrait used it to pattern a floor-grazing trench coat.
11. Reconsider Oversized Blazers
Who: Calvin Klein Collection, Victoria Beckham, Tibi
A tailored jacket is a lifelong investment. However, each season it changes in a tiny way. For autumn, Calvin Klein, Victoria Beckham and Tibi seemingly conferred and agreed: sharp, structured shoulders with a real heft of fabric is ideal. Colour wise, Tibi suggests a vibrant sky blue velvet, but Calvin Klein and Victoria Beckham have opted for subtle textiles.
12. Develop a Taste For Fussy Zips
Who: 3.1 Philip Lim, Public School, Victoria Beckham, Sies Marjan
Embellishment is soooo last season, it’s all about the single statement zip for a/w17. Ubiquitous with hiker's fleeces, the funnel neck zip has had a total rebrand. From party-ready at Sies Marjan to work-aprops at Victoria Beckham, it’s a surprisingly versatile trend.
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This article originally appeared on The Debrief.