Savage x Fenty, the lingerie label created by Rihanna, has just appointed its first-ever ambassador: Normani. The singer, who was formerly in girl group Fifth Harmony, starred in the label's runway show earlier this year – a huge performance during New York Fashion Week that, rather than being splashed over social media, was streamed on Amazon Primesome weeks later. As always, the show featured models of different shapes, sizes and ethnicities, illustrating that inclusivity at Fenty is not tokenistic – it is built into the brand's DNA.
News of Normani's new appointment comes at the same time that Victoria's Secret has announced that it is cancelling its annual fashion show, amid diminishing viewing figures and growing criticism of the brand itself. It's no surprise considering the last year, either. 2018's showhad the lowest-ever ratings figures; reports emerged of poor sales; and Ed Razek, the brand's Chief Marketing Officer, made headlines for all the wrong reasons when he said he would never cast a transgender model in the Victoria's Secret show. If that wasn't bad enough, Leslie Wexner, CEO of L Brands, the parent company of Victoria's Secret, has been linked to Jeffrey Epstein.
Razek left the company this year, only for the brand to cast Valentina Sampaio, a transgender model and its first 'plus size' model, who is a UK 16 – the average national size.
It's interesting to compare such a downfall with the rising success of a brand like Savage x Fenty. Rihanna has always said her intention was to make underwear that made women 'feel good', emphasising the idea of sexuality on your own terms – something which sits in direct contrast to a brand like Victoria's Secret, which is still marketing underwear through the male gaze.** 'I feel like it’s not about having to conform and fit whatever the standard definition of sexy is,' Normani told US Vogue. 'Rih does a really amazing job of making it universal and having something in the collection for everybody.'
The issue of representation is key here, and one of which customers are increasingly aware. Victoria's Secret's move to a more 'inclusive' model line-up smacks of tokenism, which clearly did not escape public notice. Now, it seems, the brand is paying the price.