Milan Fashion Week got off to a super start on Wednesday, with Kate Moss, Naomi and Linda Evangelista front row at Fendi. They were joined by a pack of Hollywood stars including Demi Moore, Naomi Watts and Christina Ricci, and turned out in support of their friend, artistic director Kim Jones.
As guests arrived, one thing became clear; this was an offering poised to go big on accessories. On the catwalk itself, six giant sculptures of signature Fendi handbags including the Baguette and the Peekaboo loomed large. They came thick and fast in the collection too, carried by almost every model and spanning mini satchels to maxi totes, masterminded by the brand’s accessories designer Silvia Venturini Fendi. A new style of shopper, coined the Flip, which can be folded into a clutch also showcased Fendi’s skill at delivering a future It-bag.
As for the clothes, Jones cited the Italian capital as a key inspiration. 'In Rome, there is an elegance in ease and not caring what anybody else thinks – that is real luxury,' he shared in the show notes. 'In this collection, I wanted to reflect that. It is about women who dress for themselves and their own lives, I see it with Silvia and Delfina [Delettrez Fendi] all of the time. It’s not about the spectacle of being looked at but the reality of wearing and the confidence and chicness that comes with it. It’s not about being something but being someone.'
Accordingly, stand-out pieces included a twist on the twinset, wet-look leather coats and undone white shirts. And if you haven’t already got the memo yet - ballet flats are sticking around for next season.
Moncler
A whopping 5,000-strong crowd of people turned out to witness the launch of Moncler’s latest collaboration with Pharrell Williams on Wednesday night, with a dance party which continued long into the night. Among the guests packed into the courtyard outside the Portrait Milano hotel were Willow and Jaden Smith and Ashley Graham, along with the megastar himself, who first joined the Moncler family as co-creator in 2009 and who wore a custom Moncler Genius x Pharrell Williams glamping-inspired look. Attendees were treated to a performance by Houston rapper Tobe Nwigwe’s Black Angels Collective, accompanied by a choir, who performed synchronised choreography dressed in moss-green puffer vests, tiered pants and ski goggles from the new collection.
MaxMara
The Women’s Land Army - formed during World War I and recruiting up to 80,000 women to farm while Britain’s men took up arms - may not seem an obvious source of inspiration for one of Italy’s best known luxury labels. But for MaxMara’s long-time British designer Ian Griffiths - who has been at the house’s helm for over three decades - this served as the basis for a collection which prioritised an elegantly utilitarian offering for a modern woman’s wardrobe.
Generous military style jackets and gabardine cotton dresses inspired by gardeners aprons with 'pouches capacious enough for a potting trowel' were among the mainstays and came in an array of colours, from luscious grass green to sandy neutrals. Thick cable knit co-cords, consisting of a slouchy jumper with micro shorts also toed the high/low balance beautifully - even the floor sweeping evening gowns had practical pockets.
As for accessories, these spoke to a customer who calls the city - not the countryside - home, her capacious bag more likely to contain a laptop than freshly picked flowers and high heeled strappy sandals better equipped for strutting down the sidewalk than the middle of a muddy field.
Emporio Armani
'Summer as a condition of the spirit' is how legendary designer Mr Armani described his next season offering for Emporio Armani. Smiling models - yes, smiling! - breezed down the catwalk, clad in diaphanous sheer dresses which billowed behind them, appearing weightless and illuminated with touches of iridescent metallic embroideries. Jackets flowed out from the waist, tops were cropped to reveal glimpses of skin and long skirts emphasised each step.
Hands-free micro bags and flat pumps lent an easy, effortless mood that had us dreaming of summer already.
Moschino
In honour of Moschino’s 40th anniversary, four super-stylists were recruited to offer their own interpretation of founder Franco Moschino’s iconic designs from 1983 to 1993. Act One belonged to French stylist Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, whose collection of wardrobe cornerstones came glittering in rhinestones and adorned with labels such as 'Classic Pant' or 'Black Blazer'.
New York fashion editor Gabriella Karefa-Johnson coined a new buzz word with her collection of early 90s throwbacks. 'Let’s call it NOWstalgia!' she said backstage, of her offering which was rich in bold crochet dresses and Franco’s signature cowboy hats.
Chinese stylist Lucia Liu’s satirical t-shirts, emblazoned with slogans such as ‘Protect me from the fashion system’, came paired with giant bow-strewn skirts and garnered more than a few knowing nods from the fatigued fashion circuit who sat front row.
But any flagging spirits were well and truly revived by the final act by iconic British stylist Katie Grand, who’s exploration of ‘Loud Luxury’ was modelled by dancers who exploded down the catwalk with a routine choreographed by Wayne McGregor.
For the finale, the entire cast of 40 models stormed the catwalk wearing charity T-shirts made in partnership with the Elton John AIDS Foundation in a moment that would have done the 90s supermodel era proud.
Tod’s
Best known for its luxury leather craftsmanship, the workshops of Milan’s iconic Theatre alla Scala Ansaldo served as the perfect backdrop for Tod’s SS24 showcase. As guests entered the studio space, artisans could be found stationed around work benches, handcrafting the brand’s iconic Gommino driving shoes.
In what was creative director Walter Chiapponi’s final collection for the brand, after announcing he would be stepping down following a four-year stint earlier this year, the catwalk played host to an expertly tailored, beautifully minimalist collection. Lightweight summer suiting was constructed from pleated trousers and collarless jackets, while kimono sleeve cotton poplin shirts, crochet knitwear and pleated patchwork skirts offered a subtle contrast.
Naturally, leather was the star of the show, running the gamut of colour-pop heeled mules, sumptuous trench coats and a statement utility belt, laden with accoutrements from patch pockets to matching driving gloves, resembling a high fashion alternative to a tool belt.
Prada
Prada has long prescribed to the notion that beauty is always better with a little ugliness thrown in. And at Thursday afternoon’s showcase, there was so much beauty to be found that a hefty dose of slime - which poured down in sheets from the ceiling and onto the corrugated peach-pink catwalk - was required as a counter measure.
Backstage, designers Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada spoke of wanting to 'show what we can do' - words, when spoken by two of the most acclaimed fashion visionaries on the Milan schedule, is sure to make expectations skyrocket.
The fashion crowd was not left disappointed - dresses crafted from superfine organza were referenced as ‘Haze’ in the show notes for their hyper-real semi-sheer appearance, while cocoon coats crafted from painted patchwork leather and fringed skirts made from crystal chains showcased the duo’s innovative grasp of textile manipulation.
This was Prada at its finest - and if you add just one thing to your next season wish list, make it the Prada chore jacket.