And so to Milan, where some of fashion’s most influential power players set out their agenda for Autumn/Winter 2019. With a strong emphasis on legacy, given the number of heritage brands based in the Italian capital, this season threw up some unexpected elements to surprise us all. Overall, it seems that Milan is throwing it back to the 1980s, with several designers taking their cues from the decade of big shoulders, sharp tailoring and puffball skirts. No. 21 took direct inspiration from film director (and surely the very embodiment of the 80s) Brian De Palma, while MSGM fused 1960s influences with ‘80s bubble skirts and party frocks.
The themes of duality and disruption were rife – contrasts between the masculine and feminine, romanticism and utilitarianism and classicism with futurism were all explored, most interestingly by Prada (featuring Cara Delevingne in a Frankenstein-inspired dress), Marni and Max Mara. The latter has decided to capitalise on its big moment, which came when Nancy Pelosi wore a classic coat from the designer. As a result, the catwalk was awash with what can only be described as power coats in all manner of hues – most impressive were the rich, jewel tones.
Stella Jean represented the future from her unique (particularly among the Italian designers) multicultural perspective, managing to use the art of Paul Gauguin to make a strong comment on colonialism and heritage. As always, the collection was a riot of print, colour and a new point of view. Also mining the world of art was Antonio Marras, who explored both nostalgia and romanticism through the artist Modigliani, printing his portrait of Medea Taci on knee-high socks.
Then came Dolce and Gabbana with a collection of gargantuan proportions. Entitled Eleganza, the design duo send a whopping 127 looks down their catwalk, choosing to stray away from the new model of fashion show that they had adopted for the past few seasons. Rather than capitalising on millennial influencers, the pair explored the DNA of the brand (which has struggled to strike the right note in recent months), emphasising a “return to classicality” in the form of archetypal Dolce tropes. There was, naturally, a whole heap of leopard print, form-fitting florals and several extravagant bridal looks to boot.
And, of course, the name on everyone’s lips was Karl Lagerfeld, who died two days before his latest Fendi collection was shown. He was stamped across the entire collection, his signature written over every look. Stiff, high collars and oversized bows were partnered with the logo he famously invented for the brand, which this time was reimagined in his own handwriting.
Forget trawling through every photograph from the shows – Milan is, after all, a jam-packed schedule. Instead, we’ve whittled it down to the key looks for you, to save you a lot of time. Thank us later.
Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2019: All the looks you need to see
1 of 24Versace, AW19
The classic Versace tropes were front and centre – oversized safety pins, harness details and an army of the world's most famous supermodels. Only, this time Donatella threw in her own take on '90s grunge. "A little bit of imperfection is the new perfection," she said.
2 of 24Gucci, AW19
Alessandro Michele's celebration of individuality continued in a collection that saw '40s tailoring mixed with opulent, '80s-style separates. Bold colours, clashing textures and even fetish masks were some of the most prominent features of the show
3 of 24Bottega Veneta, AW19
An innovative take on tailoring included quilted skirts
4 of 24Emporio Armani, AW19
"Opposites harmonise in unexpected and individual combinations," read the show notes. This translated to a collection infused with unexpected sporty elements
5 of 24Dolce and Gabbana, AW19
A huge collection of 127 looks, the duo explored their design signatures including animal prints and form-fitting florals
6 of 24Alberta Ferretti, AW19
In an 80s-inspired collection comprising of a multitude of daywear, the ice-white tailoring was a highlight
7 of 24Giorgio Armani, AW19
Called 'Rhapsody in Blue', there were super sharp silhouettes seen in tailoring that played with shape and form
8 of 24Fendi, AW19
Shown just two days after the death of Karl Lagerfeld, this collection had his signature written all over it. Logo tights and starched, white bows were the best bits
9 of 24Etro, AW19
Rich embroidery and embellished accessories were the takeaway trends here
10 of 24,Jil Sander, AW19
Tonal dressing clearly isn't going anywhere for AW19
11 of 24Roberto Cavalli, AW19
The brand's classic tiger print was reimagined in a rainbow of colours
12 of 24Antonio Marras, AW19
Marras used the artist Modigliani as his main source of inspiration
13 of 24Max Mara, AW19
Following the global reaction to Nancy Pelosi's choice of Max Mara coat, the brand decided to capitalise on that success and show the new breed of power coats
14 of 24Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, AW19
This season was all about the '90s, meaning that silk slips were the order of the day
15 of 24No. 21, AW19
Using the film director Brian De Palma as a main influence, No.21 fused the sexuality of the '80s with practical tailoring
16 of 24Moschino, AW19
As playful as always, Moschino channeled the game show The Price is Right, making for one seriously camp show. Big hair is back
17 of 24Marni, AW19
Marni AW19 is all about contrast – think sensual, feminine elements mixed with clumpy boots and a dark sense of eroticism
18 of 24Missoni, AW19
Missoni's typically innovative use of knitwear was on full display once again for AW19. "Everything is knit, even if it looks like it isn't," said Angela Missoni backstage
19 of 24MSGM, AW19
The 1980s were out in force in the form of bubble skirts and puffed shoulders
20 of 24Sportmax, AW19
Mannish tailoring combined with easy, fluid skirts
21 of 24Prada, AW19
In a collection inspired by Mary Shelley's Frankenstein, Cara Delevingne returned to the catwalk in a dress printed with the image of Shelley's monster
22 of 24Tod's, AW19
As always, a sumptuous use of leather made for a very glossy, grown-up collection
23 of 24Stella Jean, AW19
Represented the future from her unique multicultural perspective, Stella Jean used the art of Paul Gauguin to make a strong comment on colonialism and heritage. As always, the collection was a riot of print, colour and a new point of view.
24 of 24Salvatore Ferragamo, AW19
Ferragamo – now under the creative direction of Paul Andrew – made a strong case for patchwork prints, which punctuated the soft tailoring and impressive leather pieces of the collection