It's been a long and winding road to recovery, but it looks like the fashion show is set to make a triumphant return. And Marc Jacobs is leading the way. The New York Fashion Week veteran staged a physical show at New York's Public Library, as well as projecting a livestream onto the outside of city landmark Bergdorf Goodman, and it was the first time in a long time that things felt like they might, just might, be going back to normal.
First of all, the editors assembled, arriving outside the venue in the post-lockdown finery and flocking to the front row (which, interestingly, did not feature socially-distanced seating; probably because, according to Vogue__, guests were required to provide proof that they had been vaccinated).
That meant street-style, which has struggled to put it mildly in the age of digital shows, finally got a chance to make a case for its return. Mega-stylist Gabriella Karefa-Johnson arrived wearing a graphic tee (Aries x Umbro) and some silver mules-slash-sneakers from Miu Miu. Grace Coddington, meanwhile, proved that that her fashion formula didn't need any tweaking post-pandemic with her simple shirt dress and white trainers combo.
And the clothes. They were practical meets playful on steroids. Several looks saw giant inflatable hoods worn under logoed coats with neon wide-leg trousers. There was so much fantastical layering - puffer coats over polo necks (which were pulled to just under the models' noses, perhaps as makeshift masks) over dresses over trousers - and giant disc-like sequins paired with beanies, skin-tight balaclavas, ski goggle sunglasses and platform Mary-Janes.
These are clothes that take up space and are unafraid (in fact, are designed) to make a big entrance after this enforced period of lonesome nesting. The Beetlejuice puffer coat-cum-dress was immediately beamed across social media (as were outpourings of love about the the colour palette). We can only hope, once the red carpet is probably resurrected, that someone is brave enough to wear all of it.
SEE: The Highlights From New York Fashion Week AW21
1 of 16Proenza Schouler
Ella Emhoff, Kamala Harris's step-daughter, walked exclusively for Proenza Schouler, making her catwalk debut in an understated yet highly wantable collection that went beautifully with her curled mullet. Ashley Brokaw did the casting, and is famous for cementing the next big faces so expect to see Emhoff's, hopefully still with those wire-rimmed glasses, everywhere this September.
2 of 16Zimmermann
Inspired by a '70s TV show, Countdown, Nicky Zimmermann embraced a rose-tinted attitude for AW21, with a heady line-up of diaphanous dresses, louche pussy-bows and trumpeting flares.
3 of 16Gabriela Hearst
Gabriela Hearst is set for a stellar year. She's about to take the reigns at Chloé, and delivered one of her most breath-taking collections to date for her eponymous brand based in New York. It was something of a family affair - her inspiration was Saint Hildegard of Bingen, a German abbess, after her husband gifted her a book about her - and the flowers blooming across the knitwear were transposed from her daughter's doodlings. An impressive 40% of the collection was made out of deadstock fabrics, a percentage that the designer hopes to shift to 50% this year. 'We found them and turned them around and gave the planet a little break. My father used to say, 'Small things for the world but big for me.' It makes me feel good,' she told Vogue.
4 of 16Colin Locascio
Colin Locascio's autumn collection, #madeforthecoolgirl according to his Instagram, is the perfect antidote to all the neutrals you've been that, while mellowing on the soul, aren't exactly mood-lifting. An apple-print jacket on the other hand is just what the doctored order.
5 of 16Jonathan Simkhai
Jonathan Simkhai's collection - a meditation on kinship, craft and connectedness - proved that the medium of video, while restrictive in some ways, can be a blessing in others. Zooming up to one particular dress - butter-coloured with an asymmetric cut-out - you could really focus on the delicate chain strung across the skin, instead of just watching it flash by on the catwalk.
6 of 16Anna Sui
Anna Sui's rose-tinted collection, Phantasmadelic, was inspired by 1968's Wonderwall, a film that tells the story of a who scientist peeps through a hole in his wall and discovers a dazzling new world beyond. 'As we wait 'on pause' for the new world that will emerge from this pandemic, my mind is awhirl with visions of the vibrant world that lies just ahead,' said Sui.
7 of 16Rodarte
To celebrate their 15 years in fashion, Rodarte's past collaborators, admirers and friends each filmed a tribute to its founding sisters, Kate and Laura Mulleavy. Model Anwar Mou, pictured, spoke about their welcoming attitude on set; Autumn De Wilde, photographer, talked about meeting them for the first time, before anyone had seen their clothes, and how just seeing one sketch and a swatch of fabric was enough to convince her that she wanted to be part of their journey.
8 of 16Private Policy
America's Asian community has seen a spike in hate crimes since the start of Covid-19, which is why Private Policy, from design duo Haoran Li and Siying Qu, decided to dedicate their autumn collection to Chinese immigrant workers in the 19th century. Speaking to The Cut, Qu said: 'The least we could do is speak out against anti-Asian violence. We want this collection to teach people about how generations of Asians have contributed to develop this country.'
9 of 16Libertine
Libertine's Johnson Hartig is the master of embellishment, and for AW21, seems to be suggesting that the future is full of it. Whether it's a trench coat with glitter-sprayed sleeves or hats twinkling with paste gems, it's time to indulge your inner magpie.
10 of 16Bronx and Banco
Staged in an old-fashion piano bar, Bronx and Banco's virtual catwalk show made a very convincing case for dressing up. Cue diamanté bras, satin trousers, feathered bustiers and little black dresses slashed at the hip, all of which whispered, 're-emergence'.
11 of 16Lavie by CK
Inspired by Coming to America, Black Panther and Bridgerton, Lavie by CK's lavish collection was the perfect antidote to all the loungewear we've been wearing.
12 of 16Adeam
Adeam's latest collection was inspired by a trip to Tokyo's Mori Art Museum, and its exhibition STARS. Its deconstructed shirting, fluid forever dresses and polished sportswear are exactly what we want to wear now.
13 of 16Jason Wu
For AW21, Jason Wu created a catwalk out of a space very familiar to us all at this point - the supermarket. 'Mr Wu's General Store' was a grocer's filled with fresh produce and flowers, where the models snaked through the stacked wooden crates wearing coats, easy dresses, sweaters and knee-high boots (i.e. motivation a plenty to get out of your leggings) to a socially-distanced audience.
14 of 16Monse
For its video presentation, featuring model-of-the-moment Indira Scott, Monse explored what we're currently wearing (loungewear) and what we hope to be wearing in the not too distant future (occasionwear), perhaps suggesting that a marriage of the two is possible now with its little red dress and white sneakers combo.
15 of 16Sincerely Ria
Sincerely Ria's collection is dedicated to women. 'Here's to the women around the world, the strong, the beautiful, the infinite, the powerful, the soulful, the divine,' says the short film's narrator, while its models appear wearing halos of gold in their hair and clothes that showcase the power and beauty of the female form.
16 of 16Prabal Gurung
Perhaps because it was Valentine's Day, Prabal Gurung decided to write a love letter for AW21, not to a person, but to New York. 'New York makes me feel loved,' he says in the short film, which is filled with clothes that speak of romance - and not just because they're largely pink and red. Here's hoping it won't be long before we can all don big sleeves, big flares and big ruffles and revel in the cities we love.