“The hallmark of Camp is the spirit of extravagance,” wrote Susan Sontag in her seminal 1964 essay, Notes on “Camp”. “Camp is a woman walking around in a dress made of three million feathers.”
Sontag’s essay is the inspiration for this year’s Met Gala theme, Camp: Notes on Fashion, which could give us the most outrageous and over-the-top red carpet yet – though even Rihanna might struggle to wear three million feathers.
The Met Gala, held at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, is the grand opening of the annual fashion exhibition at the Met Museum’s Costume Institute. It’s one of the biggest fashion fundraisers of the year, and the theme is the starting point for the red-carpet look of those on the exclusive guest list. Last year, the event courted controversy with Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination, as the theme’s exploration of the relationship between fashion and Catholicism came at a time when the Catholic Church was in the spotlight for child sex-abuse scandals. And it wasn’t the first time that the Met Gala’s theme has provoked tension: China: Through the Looking Glass, in 2015, was criticised for condensing a diverse culture into some offensive stereotypes, seen on the red carpet through a proliferation of dragons, chopsticks, braids and kimonos. Rihanna was one of the few people actually dressed by a Chinese designer – she won the red carpet with Guo Pei’s infamous canary-yellow creation, which subsequently inspired thousands of memes.
When Sontag’s essay was first published, some in the LGBTQ+ community were critical. It was 1964, before the modern gay-rights movement began – pre-Stonewall uprising, when homosexuality was still considered a mental disorder and long before equal marriage was recognised in the UK – and the relationship between camp and marginalised LGBTQ+ people was such that bringing it to public attention and making it mainstream felt, to some, like a violation. Arguably, it doesn’t get more public and mainstream than the Met Gala. So, with camp and queerness being so intrinsically linked, will this year’s theme be as controversial as the last?
Harris Reed, the queer designer-turned-model who started attracting attention last year for collaborating with Harry Styles, and who recently walked for Gucci’s 2019 Cruise show, doesn’t think so. “I think the theme this year, and the people hosting [of which Styles is one], is really going to make a big and impactful change for the LGBTQIA community,” he says.
“This year’s theme could not be more relevant, it could not be more important, at a time when we have people like Donald Trump banishing transgender individuals from the US military, when you have the Sultan of Brunei now legally allowing LGBTQIA people to be stoned to death.”
Sontag wrote that “homosexuals, by and large, constitute the vanguard -- and the most articulate audience -- of Camp”. And it is the way the Met Gala will highlight this relationship that Reed says is so important.
“Camp is a really deep word and I think that’s amazing, because anything that has that kind of subtext to it, that is so multifaceted, can really open people up to have a conversation – what is this year’s theme? What is camp? What is camp culture? Where did this come from? I think camp is a great window to open people up to queerness and queer culture and what that stands for,” he says.
While the Met Gala is one night only, the Costume Institute’s exhibition will run all summer. It follows the evolution of the camp aesthetic from queer subculture to important influence on mainstream culture. The exhibition will feature 175 objects and will open with the 17th-century court of Versailles positioned as a “camp Eden”, looking at the concept of se camper, or “to posture boldly”, in the royal courts of Louis XIV and Louis XV.
William Dill-Russell – a designer who cites queer history as an inspiration and who used Fanny and Stella, two 18th-century crossdressers, as inspiration for their first collection – has three garments in the exhibition.
“As a queer designer who identifies as non-binary, it is seemingly rare to have such incredible opportunities gifted to you,” they say. “To then also be representing a part of the exhibition that reflects on the history of campness and queer culture is such an honour.”
This year’s theme presents an opportunity, too: “I’d love to see people really explore the history of camp and queer pioneers, and if that means them wearing an homage to someone – then great! There are so many incredible people who have paved paths, not just for queer folk, but also for creatives. So it would be interesting to see who relates to certain historical figures and stories.”
“It’s obviously also very important to show how valid LGBTQ+ identities and history are in a world where LGBTQ+ individuals are still being marginalised by governments and bigoted people.”
Camp, Sontag wrote, is the “attempt to do something extraordinary”. And, if it succeeds in having fun while giving a platform to queer designers and showcasing queer history, it looks like this year’s Met Gala could be on to a winner. Camp is joyous, generous and glamorous – a fitting theme for fashion’s biggest fundraiser. The 700-strong guestlist is, though, a closely kept secret – the big names attending will be revealed on Monday’s red carpet, along with their outfits.
“I would, however, love it if Cher attended. Vintage Bob Mackie?!” says Dill-Russell. Amen to that
Met Gala 2018 Best Dressed - Grazia
1 of 72Amal Clooney
Gala co-chair Amal Clooney was one of the first to arrive, wearing a rose print design by Richard Quinn (whose LFW show was recently attended by none other than Her Majesty the Queen, FYI)
2 of 72Bee Shaffer
Bee Shaffer, perennially plus one to her mother Anna Wintour, wore scarlett Valentino haute couture fashioned from scalloped layers.
3 of 72Anna Wintour
Anna Wintour chose a custom beaded Chanel design in white. Perks of the job, hey?
4 of 72Princess Beatrice of York
Princess Beatrice made her Met Gala debut in an appropriately regal shade of purple, complete with tiara.
5 of 72Olivia Munn
Olivia Munn's gold chainmail dress (and matching net headpiece, naturally) are from high street favourite H&M.
6 of 72Donatella Versace
Donatella Versace made a statement in... Versace, of course.
7 of 72Cynthia Erivo
Broadway star Cynthia Erivo chose this purple velvet showstopper - complete with bedazzled eyebrows.
8 of 72Amanda Seyfried
Amanda Seyfried opted for a whimsically romantic spin on the theme, pairing this marigold yellow Prada number with an understated tiara (which, in this case, is not a contradiction in terms).
9 of 72Jasmine Sanders
Model Jasmine Sanders was the Gala's golden girl in H&M.
10 of 72Lili Reinhart
For her first Met Gala, Riverdale star Lili shone in silver H&M.
11 of 72Lily Collins
Lily Collins embraced the dark side in ethereal Givenchy Haute Couture.
12 of 72Uma Thurman
Uma Thurman kept things simple all in white.
13 of 72Bella Hadid
Bella Hadid opted for latex and leather.
14 of 72Kate Bosworth
Kate Bosworth channelled bridal chic with an embellished veil and a tulle gown complete with awe-inspiring train, by the design duo at Oscar de la Renta.
15 of 72SZA
Fully embracing the theme, SZA looked celestial in tulle and serious embellishment.
16 of 72Zoe Kravitz
Zoe Kravitz's high-split lace dress is by Anthony Vacarello for Saint Laurent.
17 of 72Kate Moss
Mossy is back! Kate made her Met return in this deceptively simple LBD by Anthony Vacarello for Saint Laurent.
18 of 72Kerry Washington
Two words for Kerry Washington's Met look: golden goddess.
19 of 72Kris Jenner
The first of the Kardashian-Jenner clan to arrive at the Met was momager-in-chief Kris, in black feathers and gold embellishment.
20 of 72Rihanna
Trust Ri-Ri to take the theme and run with it: let the memes commence, because Rihanna just rocked up to the Met dressed in what's best described as a pearl-encrusted take on papal vestments.
21 of 72Irina Shayk
Irina Shayk shone in gold, with matching choker.
22 of 72Ariana Grande
It's hard to believe that this is Ariana Grande's first Met Gala. Look closer at her gown and you might just notice detailling from a certain iconic Renaissance painting...
23 of 72Lana Del Rey and Jared Leto
Props to Lana and Jared for doing the absolute most in Gucci (who else?)
24 of 72Poppy Delevingne
Poppy Delevingne looked chic and classic while still nodding to the theme in this purple gown with gold detailling.
25 of 72Sarah Jessica Parker
Giving Rihanna a run for her money, it's SJP in Dolce & Gabbana, complete with matching headdress
26 of 72Brooke Shields
Brooke Shields kept things classic in this strapless navy blue style, a custom design by Zac Posen.
27 of 72Kate Upton
Model Kate Upton wore a simple emerald style by Zac Posen, completing the look with a bejewelled headband.
28 of 72Diane Kruger
Always one to watch for a Met style statement, Diane Kruger wore a blue Prabal Gurung design with a dramatic high-low hem and train, with a Philip Treacy x Tasaki headpiece.
29 of 72Anne Hathaway
In Ocean's Eight, she'll play a wealthy socialite who's the target of a jewel heist at the Met Ball. For her latest IRL Gala appearance, Anne Hathaway was stunning in scarlet Valentino.
30 of 72Amber Heard
Amber Heard off-set the simplicity of her long-sleeved, high-necked red gown with a cut-out at the waist and a golden halo of a headpiece.
31 of 72Dakota Fanning
Dakota Fanning kept things simple - and angelic - in this one-shouldered white Grecian style.
32 of 72Rosie Huntington Whiteley
As if we needed further definitive proof that Rosie Huntington-Whiteley is heaven sent, her latest Met appearance (wearing Ralph Lauren embellished with Swarovski crystals) is it.
33 of 72Gabrielle Union
Gabrielle Union brought a pop of bold yellow to the Met steps in sunny Prabal Gurung.
34 of 72Joan Smalls
Joan Smalls looked ready to reign over the Met Gala in a golden gown and queenly headdress.
35 of 72Alexa Chung
Alexa Chung stuck to the theme in a simple white dress with statement sleeves.
36 of 72Frances McDormand
All hail this year's Best Actress Oscar winner Frances McDormand, in a look straight from the runway at Valentino.
37 of 72Rooney Mara
Rooney Mara wore a light blue look last seen on the runway at Givenchy Haute Couture.
38 of 72Evan Rachel Wood
Evan Rachel Wood's Altuzarra ensemble is utterly angelic.
39 of 72Hailey Baldwin
Hailey Baldwin's Met Gala aesthetic? Disney Princess at Coachella.
40 of 72Katy Perry
Give her a theme and Katy Perry will take it literally, this time with 6 foot angel wings...
41 of 72Cindy Crawford and Rande Gerber
Cindy Crawford brought a touch of old school, Jessica Rabbit style glamour to proceedings.
42 of 72Winnie Harlow
Winnie Harlow was angelic all in white with a headpiece reaching up to the heavens.
43 of 72Lily Aldridge
Lily Aldridge wore a simple Ralph Lauren style in bold yellow, letting her jewellery do the talking
44 of 72Emma Stone
Emma Stone continued her partnership with Louis Vuitton for her Met look, a sophisticated navy gown with gold embellishments.
45 of 72Paris Jackson
For her second Met Gala, Paris Jackson chose a Stella McCartney style in rust orange.
46 of 72Alicia Vikander
Alicia Vikander was chic as ever in her designer of choice, Louis Vuitton.
47 of 72Kendall Jenner
After last year's nearly naked dress, Kendall Jenner kept things simple in a white jumpsuit by Off-White.
48 of 72Cara Delevingne
Pink hair, yellow eyeshadow, a medieval headpiece and a fishnet gown: Cara Delevingne does not do the Met Gala by halves.
49 of 72Michelle Williams
Michelle Williams stuck to her signature red carpet style in a chainmail-esque design from Louis Vuitton.
50 of 72Scarlett Johansson
Unexpectedly, Scarlett Johansson wore a design by Marchesa, the label co-owned by Harvey Weinstein's estranged wife Georgina Chapman.
51 of 72Nicki Minaj
Nicki is another Met attendee who can always be counted upon to embrace the dress code, this time in scarlet Oscar de la Renta.
52 of 72Blake Lively
Blake Lively's Met gown reportedly took 600 hours to make, and now we can finally see why...
53 of 72Kim Kardashian West
Kim wore a gold chainmail gown by Versace, complete with crucifix embellishment.
54 of 72Zendaya
The inspiration for Zendaya's latest Met showstopper? Joan of Arc.
55 of 72Emilia Clarke
Emilia Clarke embraced the theme in Dolce & Gabbana.
56 of 72Jennifer Lopez
Jennifer Lopez's embellished Balmain gown - with built-in crucifix neckline - was a true showstopper.
57 of 72Madonna
Madonna was always going to embrace this particular theme, wasn't she?
58 of 72Solange
Solange asked her Twitter followers to vote on her Met Gala look: this was the heavenly result.
59 of 72Miley Cyrus
Miley kept things uncharacteristically low-key in a black Stella McCartney dress.
60 of 72Letitia Wright and John Boyega
We have so much time for this particular Met duo...
61 of 72Savannah and Sienna Miller
A sister act: the Miller sisters arrived at the Gala together, with Sienna in angelic Louis Vuitton and Savannah in bold red.
62 of 72Emily Ratajkowski
Another star to embrace metallics for the night was Emily Ratajkowski, in this silver-gold style with major cut-outs.
63 of 72Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen
Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen opted for a boho take on the dress code.
64 of 72Gigi Hadid
Gigi looked suitable angelic in glimmering Versace.
65 of 72Priyanka Chopra
Priyanka's beaded coif (reminiscent of a medieval knight) took over 250 hours to made; she paired it with a simple strapless gown by Ralph Lauren.
66 of 72Cardi B
All hail Cardi B, who graced her first Met Gala in beaded Moschino by Jeremy Scott.
67 of 72Lena Waithe
Lena Waithe's resplendent rainbow cape took a stand for the LGBTQ community.
68 of 72Hailee Steinfeld
Hailee Steinfeld looked celestial all in white with an angelic crown.
69 of 72Kylie Jenner
Kylie brought the tiny sunglasses trend to the Met carpet, pairing her miniature silver shades with a simple black cut-out gown.
70 of 72Mary J Blige
If in doubt, match your dress to your thigh high boots a la Mary J Blige...
71 of 72Selena Gomez
Selena Gomez chose an ethereal, pale pink style by her perennial collaborators, Coach.
72 of 72Gisele Bundchen
Naturally, Gisele opted for the 'goddess' interpretation of this year's dress code...