It's difficult to imagine now in our world of Instagram, live streaming and YouTube stars but in November 1973, the fashion industry was changed by a single show. The Battle of Versailles fashion show, to be exact, held in the French palace to raise money for its restoration. And while the intention was to pit some of the leading French designers – including Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior and Hubert de Givenchy – against American names like Oscar de la Renta and Halston, it was the Americans' model casting that really stole the show. 11 African American models walked the runway – a small number but unprecedented at the time. Among them was Bethann Hardison, who went on to blaze a trail in the industry, becoming a strong advocate for diversity in fashion.
The current conversations regarding diversity are, quite rightly, dominating our social and cultural landscapes at present, but Hardison tried to ignite these discussions way back in the 1970s when she was appearing in Harper's Bazaar, Allure and Vogue. Now, among her many roles she serves as a consultant to Gucci, who has also just recruited her to be one of the faces in its Pre-Fall 2020 lookbook.
The images were captured by Bruce Gilden, the American street-style photographer on the streets of Rome. It's Hardison, who wears Alessandro Michele's typically irreverent and playful creations with a fixed gaze and impressive nonchalance, who really steals the show. Speaking to Fashionista, she said: 'Arriving at the shoot, I understood I had already slipped into the world of Alessandro Michele, who chose me to be a part of this special collection. Then I met the unique wizard Bruce Gilden, a photographer who captured my character. I came this far, to Rome, Italy, to feel completely at home. That's the joy of stepping into the world of Alessandro Michele.'
Gucci appointed Renée E. Tirado as its new Global Head of Diversity back in the summer of this year, after some accusations that the brand was promoting blackface with one of its jumpers. Whether or not the new lookbook is a direct result of Tirado's hiring doesn't really matter, though – the fact is that Gucci has chosen in Hardison a woman who has already opened so many doors for those whose voice was not being heard. Long may she continue to do so. In all her Gucci finest.
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Gucci's Pre-Fall 2020 Lookbook:
Creative Director: Alessandro Michele
Art Director: Christopher Simmonds
Location: Roma
Photographer: Bruce Gilden
Hair Stylist: Alex Brownsell
Make Up: Thomas De Kluyve