You're in a committed relationship with your food compost bin, feel naked without your reusable water bottle and even phased out fish after watching Seaspiracy. But what about your wardrobe? Because unlike a packet of cod loins which comes with a blue sticker saying 'Certified Sustainable Seafood MSC', meaning the fishery 'has been independently assessed on its impacts to wild fish populations and the ecosystems they're part of', a clothing label doesn't necessarily make it easy for consumers to know whether the garment it's attached to is sustainably made. In fact, since any brand can use words like 'sustainable', 'ethical', 'responsible' and 'eco' without being held to any kind of industry standard, unlike cotton that's certified by the Better Cotton Initiative, a brand's product information can often mislead to the point of being considered greenwashing.
What Does Greenwashing Mean?
Greenwashing is essentially a type of marketing spin that makes a product seem more planet-friendly than it actually is. According to Greenpeace, 'Greenwashing aims to boost a company’s public image or make more sales by convincing us that buying from them aligns with our values.'
It's a widespread practice that is incredible unhelpful, as well as harmful, because it means that people who want to make good choices when it comes to clothing are essentially being hoodwinked. Instead of buying from a brand that is proactively trying to protect the planet and its people, shoppers are simply bolstering its bottom line as it continues to act in a way that's environmentally damaging and unethical - all while thinking they're doing the opposite.
The bottom line is that you really have to read the fine print. And that onus, unfortunately, falls on us as consumers. When Grazia spoke to Amy Powney, creative director of Mother of Pearl, before the release of her documentary Fashion Reimagined, she emphasised that, without specific legislation like you have within the food industry, doing due diligence is essential. 'You need to empower yourself with knowledge ,' she said, adding that a simple way to gauge whether a brand takes sustainability seriously is by looking at its Instagram. 'See how often that brand is talking about it,' she advised. 'If you’ve got one sweeping statement that’s a bit flaky then you probably know it is not what they do.'
So if you're up to the challenge, what should you be watching out for to ensure you're not falling prey to greenwashing?
What Does Greenwashing Look Like?
Greenwashing takes many forms but, on the most basic level, generally tends to be words like 'green', 'sustainable', 'ethical' and 'eco' being used to describe a product's credentials without any evidence being presented as to how it is ticking those boxes. Here are some specific claims to be mindful of when you see them on websites or in shops:
What Labels Can You Trust?
Certain materials have a degree of regulation thanks to organisations like the Better Cotton Initiative, which is the world's leading sustainability initiative for cotton, which means that brands can't use their logos or labels unless they actually conform to the standards they're setting. Keep an eye out for:
What Else Can Consumers Do To Avoid Greenwashing?
Honestly, it's hard, but the best way to avoid greenwashing is to not buy anything at all or, at least, severely reduce how much you let into your wardrobe in the first place. That sounds stringent, but like deciding to eliminate single-use plastic or only eat meat three times a week instead of every day, what is really required is a shift in mindset that changes your behaviour in the long-term. Think about...