Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2016: Party Animals

Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2016: Party Animals

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by Susannah Frankel |
Published on

In peroxide blonde, tomato red or inky black fright wigs and with their heads wrapped in stockings with hyper glamorous faces painted in high-shine, rainbow colour on top, Gareth Pugh's models looked like quite the fiercest party animals imaginable. Their clothes - think skintight Latex leggings and gloves, long, lean tailoring all sharp at the edges and micro-mini dresses edged with copper coin - ramped up the good time girl factor still further.

'It's quite a provocative proposition,' the designer stated - and that was true.

For the first time this season, the London collections have relocated to Brewer Street in Soho, the heart of the British capital, and a place that resonates with this Sunderland-born designer who studied fashion a mere stone's throw from here.

'The idea of showing in Soho on a Saturday night was intoxicating,' he continued. 'I remember arriving here for the first time, coming down to study at Saint Martins - it was like falling down a rabbit hole. There were such feelings of euphoria, of danger and of possibility. I guess that's what this collection is about. A place where you feel like anything could happen.'

This designer returned to the London catwalk last season after showing in Paris for several years and it is great to have him back. The audacity of his vision and power of the woman who wears his clothes is nothing short of invincible - high-risk and anything but shy.

The work of artist Francis Bacon - also once famously a fixture on the Soho scene - was a factor too. Perhaps that's why crimson - over and above signature black - was a dominant feature.

'I kept going back to footage of Francis Bacon describing how he would paint on the untreated side of the canvas so that each stroke would remain immediate and irrevocable. There was that and Merry Clayton's solo from the Rolling Stones' Gimme Shelter. The way she sings with such abandon - the urgency - it made me think of the spirit of Soho,' Gareth Pugh said.

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