Where will Hedi go next? What’s Raf up to? How about Alber? And what will Anthony Vaccarello do with Saint Laurent? Unless you’re a fashion nerd, you might think 2016’s big designer reshuffle has nothing to do with you. Wrong!
Here’s the thing: so much flux across the fashion industry will bring new influencers into the spotlight. Take Dior: If a woman becomes the new creative director following Raf Simons’ departure, then she will hold the power at one of a megabrand and dictate the trends you’ll be shopping on the high street.
And with the news that Francisco Costa is officially departing Calvin Klein, here are the dead certs, rank outsiders and word on the street of the big designer reshufle...
CALVIN KLEIN
OUT: Francisco Costa
As predicted, Calvin Klein have just announced that Francisco Costa, 51, has left the megabrand. He’s been at Calvin since 2003; his last two collections for the house have been bang on brilliant. Costa will be leaving the brand along with men's creative director Italo Zucchelli as part of a ‘global evolution’ for the brand.
**Rumour has it: **
Raf Simons: Could the rumours be true about him heading to Calvin Klein in New York?
SAINT LAURENT
**OUT: Hedi Slimane **
The controversial designer has left Saint Laurent, the storied house he rebooted into the 21st century via grunge and rock n roll. Could Slimane, 47, really be headed to Chanel? Gossip says Karl Lagerfeld, who shows no sign of stopping, gets to choose his successor.
**IN: Anthony Vaccarello **
The 36-year-old Italian-Belgian designer will suspend his own-name label to devote himself to YSL. Proven track record of sexy modern clothes for Versace’s Versus, but does he have that extra creative oomph for Saint Laurent?
VERSUS
Industry talent spotter, Donatella Versace, is on the hunt for a designer to replace Vaccarello.
**Rumour has it: **
Marques’ Almeida:
The London-based, Portuguese pair could provide Versus with all the necessary cool.
Jonathan Saunders:
The master colourist shuttered his brand in 2015, so he’s available - and brilliant.
Olivier Rousteing:
Invigorated Balmain where he is creative director, he knows how to deliver sex on Kendal, Gigi and co...
LANVIN
**OUT: Alber Elbaz **
Creator of gorgeous dresses, and one of fashion’s most loved designers, Elbaz, 54, exited Lanvin in 2015 having fallen out with the house’s owner. Where to next? Dior? He has the correct experience to take on the megabrand and a modern romantic aesthetic.
**IN: Bouchra Jarrar **
The French-Moroccan couturier, 45, will close her couture business to become Elbaz’s successor. Watch her soft minimalist style make its mark at Lanvin from September.
DIOR
OUT: Raf Simons
The designer, 48, resigned from Dior in October last year, causing a major furore about a speeded-up industry and overworked designers imploding.
**Rumour has it: **
Sarah Burton:
HRH-approved and favourite to take up the reins at Dior, but could she ever leave Alexander McQueen and would she move her family to Paris?
Phoebe Philo: Fashion’s piedpiper reinvented Celine from the bottom up. Wouldn’t it be amazing for this woman to design Dior?
Haider Ackermann:
With his dark romantic aesthetic, the Paris-based designer is the surprise wildcard.
Alber Elbaz:
FERRAGAMO
OUT: Massimiliano Giornetti
Giornetti, 44, leaves his role as creative director after six years.
**Rumour has it: **
Marco di Vincenzo:
Is one of only a few young bloods in Milan who has the potential to bring a new vigour to the Italian heritage brand.
Jonathan Simkhai:
There’s a buzz around this New Yorker.
Joespeh Altuzarra:
The NY hot shot could take the brand to new heights.
For the full story, see Grazia this week #GrabGrazia
