Black and white’s still alright, declares Dior
They say that at times of global crisis, the best thing for brands to do is dial up their DNA; go back to their roots, almost. If that’s true, then Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri is a clever woman because today she kicked off Paris Fashion Week with a collection that revisited the post-war period when the house of Christian Dior was founded.
Edith Piaf was the inspiration for the show
Chiuri has made it her signature to base shows around strong, feminist women. This season, she had been inspired by Parisian singers Edith Piaf and Juliette Greco - both renowned as much for their music as their work within the French resistance movement. ‘These women came from very difficult lives; they were resilient, and they used their talent to promote themselves,’ Chiuri said backstage, of looking at black and white movies and photographs of these women. ‘So that gave me a different point of view about 1950s: I wanted to give a different point of view of the iconic elements of the house.’
You’re going to need a ladylike top-handle bag
What that meant on the catwalk was a love letter to 1950s Paris: dominated by all-black dresses, similar to those that Piaf and Greco had famously made their uniform of sorts, skirts, jackets and coats. The look was ladylike: top-handle bags, gloves, heels and midi skirts with the familiar Dior nipped-in waists. But Chiuri said she’d taken the iconic silhouettes of the house – the tulip and New Look – and reworked them to make them versatile for the modern consumer.
She cited the embellished opera coat, which came with a removable gilet, ‘so you can wear it in different temperatures.’ Or the jackets, paired ‘with a belt you can wear on the front or the back so you can change the silhouette but keep the volume.’ It was almost as if she was saying, this was for a lady, who has a rebellious streak: berets, leather jackets and gingham suits adding to the Beatnik feel.
The front row proved that monochrome will never go out of style
If Chiuri was making a strong case for the timelessness of a monochrome look, the guests on the front row had got the memo. Charlize Theron showed off her back-to-blonde bob as she took her seat wearing a cream shredded dress with flat biker boots. (A trend that’s been seen in force so far this fashion month.) Meanwhile, Maisie Williams and Maye Musk also showed that when in doubt, go monochrome.
Make, ‘Non, Je Ne Regrette Rien’ your new motto
Something else you’ll never regret? Saving up for the new Dior slogan T-shirt you’re set to see everywhere soon. As Edith Piaf’s most famous songs were blasted through the show venue – a set knitted, sewed and crocheted by Portugese artist Joana Vasconcelos – cult pieces came out. A rose-embellished shoe for 'La Vie En Rose' perhaps, and a tee emblazoned with ‘Non, Je Ne Regrette Rien’ that was the move-on from the famous ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ version of 2017.
Styling tips to steal, now
Until the T-shirt, there were some immediate styling tips to take, too. Hair was pulled back into ponytails and tied with a piece of simple black fabric in a bow. Meanwhile the chunky Mary Jane-style shoes were all worn with ribbed, ankle-length socks. Even better news? Given the crumbled silk jackets and dresses, it looks like Dior’s also declared ironing is over. Praise be!