In many ways, it has been a Milan Fashion Week like any other: the bright lights, the Hadid models taking the catwalks and the covetable outfits have all been present and correct. But what has been missing, and glaringly so, is an entire section of press and buyers – those who normally fly in en masse from China. Milan Fashion Week’s organising body Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana estimated that their numbers were down by as many as 1000, thanks to COVID-19, the coronavirus.
The designers affected included the most high-profile: Mr Armani cancelled his Giorgio Armani show at the last minute, in a move, the house said, to protect the health of its guests. The show, which was meant to close Milan Fashion Week, was instead due to be performed to an empty theatre and live streamed to the world outside.
It was a similar story at London Fashion Week, which took place before Milan. ‘Due to travel restrictions from China we know that retailers, media and models are finding it challenging to organise travel to fashion weeks,’ said Caroline Rush, chief executive of the British Fashion Council. ‘We very much hope that our friends and partners in China are well and able to travel to London again soon.’ Unable to get flights, or quarantined by the government in their home cities, these influential members of the fashion corps were trapped by the recent outbreak of coronavirus. Many in the industry feel that this highly contagious, flu-like disease is the most damaging problem fashion has seen in years.
Burberry counts China as its fastest growing market and has 64 stores in the country.
Those at brands are understandably reluctant to go on the record, conscious that doom and gloom could affect sales or share prices. But everyone agrees it’s a crippling development at a time when China is more crucial to the European fashion industry than ever. Affluent Asian customers prop up many of the biggest luxury brands; in 2018, Bain and Company reported that Chinese consumers were responsible for a third of the €260 billion spent on personal luxury goods. This was expected to rise to 46% by 2025.
As a result, many European brands have built business strategies with China at their heart – a structure that may now be backfiring horribly. Meanwhile, London normally receives a steady stream of tourists who fly in for shopping trips at Harrods or the luxury outlet centre Bicester Village; last week the BBC reported that the latter was experiencing an 85% drop in customers visiting from China.
Back on the fashion-week circuit, it wasn’t just press and buyers who were absent from London. A Sai Ta, the British designer behind the label ASAI and one of London’s upcoming stars, was forced to cancel his show when his Shanghai factory was closed as part of efforts to control the spread of the virus, leaving him unable to access pieces that had already been produced. Angel Chen (recently seen on Netflix’s Next In Fashion), Hui and Ricostro cancelled shows at Milan Fashion Week, and Masha Ma, Shiatzy Chen, Uma Wang, Calvin Luo and Maison Mai have pulled out of Paris.
At the top of the industry, household-name brands may be hit equally hard. Burberry counts China as its fastest growing market and has 64 stores in the country. Earlier this month, its CEO Marco Gobbetti released a statement. ‘The outbreak of the coronavirus in Mainland China is having a material negative effect on luxury demand,’ he said. ‘We are taking mitigating actions and every precaution to help ensure the safety and wellbeing of our employees.’ As of 7 February, 24 of Burberry’s Chinese stores were closed, with the others operating reduced hours and seeing ‘significant footfall declines’.
Meanwhile, the fashion circus – much reduced and clinging to bottles of hand sanitiser, made widely available at the shows – moves on to Paris next week. Seating may be less crowded and Chinese friends may be absent, but as always, the show must go.
Milan Fashion Week 2020
Milan Fashion Week AW20: Everything You Need To See
1 of 13Gucci's Quiet Spectacle
Alessandro Michele wanted to celebrate the 'ritual' of the fashion show and so opened Milan Fashion Week with something of a bang. As ever, the collection felt eccentric and individual, underpinned by a strong sense of narrative rooted in dreams. Aside from the overtly religious references (he said ritual – and meant it) there were impressive gowns that brought to mind Moulin Rouge, while there was a nod to the ever-prevalent oversized collars we saw at Chanel Haute Couture. The show was set in the round, made to make the audience feel immersed in the backstage environment. As a result, it was a spectacle to behold, which was befitting of the clothes themselves.
2 of 13Alberta Ferretti's New Tailoring
If you want to know how to wear your tailoring next season, I'd follow where Alberta Ferretti leads if I were you. The designer may have become synonymous with ethereal, trailing gowns but there was none of that to be seen here. Instead, there was a defiant attitude seen in powerful silhouettes and a multitude of trousers tucked into boots (in the new way). That's not to say there wasn't any romance – that was present in the softness of a leather two-piece; a ruffled collar; a violet dress made entirely of ruffles. This was Alberta Ferretti for a new era. And it's one in which women wear the trousers.
3 of 13Jil Sander's Understated Elegance
There's a lot to be said for elegant, understated clothes made beautifully. This is the very essence of Jil Sander, which is surely the antithesis of our Instagram age that's so saturated with images vying for their place in our short-term memories. Of course, to fully appreciate the craftsmanship and care that goes into these clothes, one would need to see them up close but suffice to say they are the sorts of pieces that become the unsung heroes of any wardrobe. From flattering coats and impeccably cut blazers to the suggestion of a frill on collars and cuffs alike and an intelligent use of texture, Lucie and Luke Meier – creative directors of Jil Sander – are to be underestimated at your peril.
4 of 13Max Mara's Camel Coat 2.0
Max Mara always has an iteration of its classic camel coat. This season belonged to the hooded anorak, in chic AF copper brown, which was distinctly hillwalker in aesthetic. Since moaning about the weather is our national pastime, we say it's a safe investment come September.
5 of 13Fendi Borrows From Bob The Builder
Fendi gave us a high-fashion tool belt on its autumn catwalk. Designed in collaboration with cult accessories label Chaos, the itsy-bitsy 'devices' included smart phone pouches, lanyards and chain-link bracelets hanging with alphabet charms. What a way to go hands-free next season.
6 of 13Prada's Librarian Chic Dressing
Whatever Miuccia Prada designs, women want to wear. Case in point, this autumn's 'librarian chic' collection, working as strong proof that women can be feminine and powerful. Expect the fringed skirts, sweatervests, button-down shirts, neckties, patent Mary-Janes and low-slung shoulder bags to sail straight to top of editors' wishlists.
7 of 13Moschino's Marie Antoinette Moment
Even if you weren't sitting front row at Moschino, you couldn't miss the 'Let Them Eat Cake!' comments flooding Instagram. Jeremy Scott is the master of putting on a show, after all, so for autumn dressed his models as tiered and iced confections in delectable candy colours. Marie Antoinette, eat your heart out.
8 of 13Tod's Does Statement Tights
Get a jump on September's biggest trends by trying the colour pop tights situation at Tod's. That's right, black opaques are now officially boring.
9 of 13Bottega Veneta Does (Beyond) Fabulous Fringing
Whatever Daniel Lee designs, every influencer and editor will be buying come autumn. Our prediction is that the fluffy coats with tentacle-like hems, not to mention the fabulously fringed woven clutches, will have sell-out status in September.
10 of 13Versace Works The Print Clash
You can always count on Donatella Versace to deliver something energy-inducing. Cue print clash looks, where psychedelic polo necks were layered under zebra-striped dresses, that made editors sit up and smile.
11 of 13Boss Does Dreamy Colour combinations
The colour combinations at Boss were simply sublime. Our favourite grown-up pairing? Lavender and sand.
12 of 13D&G Does Snuggy Over Sexy
Milan's sexiest brand had a modest moment for autumn. The models came swathed in supersized sweaters, scarves, hoods and, would you believe it, leg-warmers. You know where to go in the next polar vortex.
13 of 13Giorgio Armani Cancels Show Last-Minute
Giorgio Armani, slated for Sunday afternoon, was cancelled last-minute because of the coronavirus, but the show, nevertheless, went on. The models walked in an eerily empty theatre and the results were live-streamed to the world outside in what was the latest example of how the disease's spread is affecting the fashion industry. The clothes, it goes without saying, were classic with welcome accents of lime, pink and blue against sumptuous black.