The underwear market looks dramatically different now than it did five years ago. While there's still a long way to go – in advertising generally, but particularly those adverts aimed at women – before the landscape is inherently inclusive, there has certainly been a shift in messaging from lingerie brands. Where once, the industry was dominated by the likes of Victoria's Secret, designing underwear for women that is explicitly presented through the male gaze (and modelled on women all of a similar body type – i.e very slim), there's now a variety of brands directly challenging that business model, from Rihanna's Savage x Fenty to Beija London.
The latter has just launched a new campaign featuring 27 women in 27 different sizes, to illustrate just how inclusive lingerie can be. The London-based label has long been challenging the industry standard; the images it uses online have always featured models all of different sizes, while the product itself is categorised to fit certain needs and be easily identifiable. Bras, for example, come in X, Y or Z categories. X consists of soft, bralette styles without underwires that are designed for smaller cups AA - C, Y caters to B-D cups and Z feaures clever construction, technical fabrics and extra support for the larger cup (DD-G).
Many brands still sell underwear and swimwear that is labelled as one size fits all. What that really means is that it will fit an ultra slim body that conforms to a certain ideal that has been held up before women for decades. Beija wants to undermine that idea completely, instead presenting us all with underwear solutions that truly fit our bodies.
Founders Abbie Miranda and Mazie Fisher said: 'We wanted to create something that showcased the breadth of the Beija size range and involved our most important asset – our customers. So, we asked the audience to get involved and the response was phenomenal. None of the women are professional models and most have never done anything like this before. The day was a huge mix of shapes, sizes, confidence levels, nerves, excitement and a whole lot of girl power. This was a collaboration and with it, a powerful display of female energy.'