Since streetwear has become so mainstream the propagators of the trend have to move on to new edgier grounds, natch. What’s next, norm core? Done to death. Emo? That’s Kanye’s territory now. Acid house, obviously.
To the deep baseline and squelching synthesizers of Acid House, Louis Vuitton men’s artistic director Virgil Abloh, grime star Skepta and rapper Playboy Carti have been channelling 1980s Manchester. Though just a snippet of Mancunian history, the defunct Hacienda club has proved a fruitful inspiration for Abloh who recreated the famed nightclub for an Off-White party during Art Basel in January. The designer joined Skepta at Parklike Festival this past weekend, which takes place on the home-turf of raver history. It’s where graphic artist Harvey Ross Ball’s iconic smiley face went from being to a by-word for house music, a coded image for anti-establishment.
In safety yellow and black, Skepta and Abloh joined Playboi Carti - real name Jordan Terrell Carter - whose machismo nail art of a grinning yellow face showed allegiances to the Happy Hardcore look. However, there is another name to thank for this burgeoning trend new: Anya Hindmarsh. Unexpected sure, but in fact, she was the first to tap into this overlooked 90s movement. Back in September last year during London Fashion Week, the accessories label presented a spring summer 18 collection complete with stamped and padded leather smileys. They say three’s a trend, but this is four examples, which if you ask us is enough for us to start searching tie-dye and black hoodies on Net-A-Porter.