I Was 21 Years Old When I Started Using SPF – Here’s Why It’s So Important For Those With Darker Skin Tones

I'll admit it. I can count on one hand the number of times I used sunscreen growing up. When on holiday I'd hit the beach and soak up the African sunshine without giving a second thought to my complexion - and only now, at 21, I'm realising the error of my ways.

There are two main reasons why I avoided sunscreen as a teenager. For one, I absolutely hated the waxy blue cast that would linger after applying an SPF - I was never aware of a formula that would cater to (and even flatter) my dark skin. The second reason? I was oblivious to the fact I actually needed sunscreen. My peers had assured me that my deeper levels of melanin afforded me protection from even the most searing of midday temperatures. It's only now I realise how common a misconception this is. In a recent viral TikTok video, a black women was asked to reveal what SPF she was wearing. Her response? 'I don't need one.' Yikes.

I'm here to assure her, and anyone else who needs to hear it, that as a black woman, you absolutely do need to use SPF.

Things changed when my role as Grazia's Fashion and Beauty Assistant afforded me the opportunity to try out a pretty eye-opening service - a facial assessment report that would reveal my true skin age. While the results had the potential to be much worse (my skin age was 22 as opposed to my actual age of 21) it was clear that if I continued to avoid SPF this pattern would continue. Read: My skin would age at a more rapid rate than me. Not ideal.

I vowed that day to take action and got some time in with Dr Vanita Rattan, CEO and Cosmetic Formulator of Skincare by Dr V, to pitch some questions I had about sunscreen and dark skin. Her advice, it turned out, was totally invaluable.

What are the effects of not using sunscreen?

The results of my facial assessment report revealed that one side was more damaged than the other. I wanted to know why.

‘This usually happens in cars and truck drivers because when you’re sitting for a long period of time,' explained Dr Rattan. 'UV is hitting one side of the face more than the other. One side does age faster than the other, which can look asymmetrical when it comes to wrinkles.'

'Also, skin cancer is the most prevalent cancer in London, which can be caused by UV rays penetrating the skin and directly damaging the DNA within our skin cells. It is important to be vigilant of any changes in your skin (such as moles, birthmarks, blemishes, or lesions) that may indicate a more severe underlying problem, and seek help from a healthcare professional when needed.

Can skin cancer happen in darker skin tones?

'Skin cancer can also happen in darker skin tones,' says Dr Rattan. 'Many people tend to assume that skin cancer is prevalent only with Caucasian skin, as the moles and dark lesions are more prevalent on lighter skin tones. With skin of colour, they tend to become more camouflaged, so it’s not something we see as often or talk about.’

Why is a common misconception that darker skin doesn't require SPF?

‘Darker skin tones are often told that if you have melanin, you don’t need to wear sunscreen. But the truth is, darker skin only gives you a SPF rating of 7. So, whilst it does take longer for darker skin tones to burn and less UV rays do penetrate our skin, we still can get skin cancer, melasma and hyperpigmentation from UV damage.'

Why do those with darker skin tones shy away from using SPF?

'Darker skin tones often shy away from SPF as many sunscreens leave a white cast on them. There are plenty of sunscreens on the market now that are well formulated and don’t leave a white cast, but a few years ago most sunscreens left a white cast and were difficult to rub in.'

Why should we use SPF?

‘There are multiple benefits to using and regularly applying SPF every two hours. Firstly, a high UVA rating will help with preventing premature ageing. So, you want to look for a mineral sunscreen that contains PA++++ as its rating. Secondly, the way ageing happens is that UV hits the skin, free radicals are generated and that damages the collagen. So that is what we are blocking.

'A lot of sunscreens on the market now are formulated to have additional beneficial ingredients in it. For example, Inzincable has Niacinamide in it and Melashield to help treat hyperpigmentation during the day. So, your sunscreens can create a stronger skin barrier and treat hyperpigmentation throughout the day, if they contain the right formulations.’

So, if you weren't including sunscreen or SPF in your skincare routine you need to now - even if, like me, you have more melanin. It's officially time to debunk the myth.

In need of a new sunscreen? Formula's have come a long way in the past few years. Check out 16 amazing SPF's for dark skin here.

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