It seems the saying 'everything in moderation' is inclusive of your beauty bag, that is, according to a worrying and fairly new term coined by award-winning beauty journalist Jessica DeFino in her Substack newsletter The ReviewofBeauty. In it, DeFino uses the word 'dermorexia' to describe a 'disordered and harmful' approach to skin which in many ways is peddled by the skincare industry itself. It encompasses everything from 12-year-olds seeking extensive anti-aging skincare routines (CC: Sephora Tweens) to the cross-generational obsession with actives like retinoids and acids, and adults willingly getting into debt over tweakments.
Seems extreme? On the contrary, DeFino argues that while she was initially reluctant to suggest illness-coded terminology, an obsession with skincare can have serious and counterproductive effects on skin health which may well require medical intervention and viewed in this light, diagnostic categories become useful and necessary. Think impaired skin barriers that manifest as dehydration, redness, itching, and flakiness. The emergence of dermorexia has also coincided with the rise of sensitised skin and dermatitis which have been growing post-pandemic; a time when the beauty sector boomed while other industries were in decline. Coincidence? Unlikely.
In fact, DeFino's observations are backed by the experts. Look to the growth of psychodermatology for the proof, where the interaction between the mind and the skin is being observed by the likes of The British Skin Foundation and consultant dermatologistDrAnjaliMahto. More specifically, NHS GP doctor, medical educator, and skin expert, Dr Raj Arora, has noted a rise in an obsessive approach to skincare with cases of what she considers dermorexia.
What is dermorexia?
As well as relating to an obsession with skincare, experts define dermorexia as a preoccupation with perceived imperfections pertaining to skin such as acne or scarring. 'It's a similar psychological condition to body dysmorphia where individuals become fixated on a perceived flaw in their appearance and this can lead to significant distress and impaired daily functioning. Dermorexia is similar but relates to the skin.'
The new term is being fuelled by social media be it trends like glass skin or AI generated beauty filters, which contribute to unattainable ideas of 'perfection' when it comes to skin. Dr Arora also puts the rise down to lockdown when 'everybody was trying out different at-home skin treatments, skincare products and trends for different morning and evening steps which continued post-covid.'
Dr Arora has seen an uptick of patients experiencing dermorexia symptoms, something which becomes evident through patient psychological screenings and an in-depth analysis of products during the consultation phase, and more often than not perceived imperfections and unrealistic expectations is the root cause.
How does dermorexia manifest itself on the skin?
While you would expect a focus on skincare to lead to healthier skin, dermorexia has been shown to do the opposite. By overdoing it with a number of skincare products, including actives, you might be sensitising the skin, breaking down its barrier to expose it to environmental damage, and causing barrier disfunction which can lead to irritation, redness, inflammation, and sensitivity. In short, it can do more harm than good, explains Dr Arora.
When thinking about solutions, there is much to consider. 'Any psychological condition requires a multifactorial management plan. An impact on mental health can lead to distress, social withdrawal, low self-esteem and can even result in conditions like depression and anxiety. This preoccupation with skin can interfere with your social or personal relationships, work or overall quality of life. It can have a big impact,' she adds.
Depending on the severity of dermorexia, Dr Arora recommends cognitive behavioural therapy (CBT) to challenge and change negative thought patterns or behaviours, as well as connecting with support groups to reduce isolation and interacting with others who may be going through similar experiences.
Overarchingly, education – or more so re-education – is key, whether that be raising awareness about the signs of dermorexia or having tough conversations around unrealistic beauty standards. 'Everybody has flaws or perceived flaws, skin is supposed to be textured and look different, that does not mean you have a skin condition or that something is not quite right,' adds Dr Arora.
Whether sating our hunger for good skin means fostering self-acceptance, reducing screen time, or Marie Kondo'ing our bathroom shelves, one thing is certain: less is always more.
Sameeha Shaikh is Grazia UK's Beauty Writer, working across all categories to bring you insights on the latest trends, industry news and the products you need to know about, viral or not (most probably viral).
