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The influx of skincare trends these days is seemingly never-ending. From 'slugging'to'sandwiching', social media - and particularly TikTok - is a hotbed for new - and often ill-advised - DIY shortcuts. Trying to decipher which hacks actually pass muster with the pros is a minefield.
Have a few dermaplaning how-tos been popping up on your social media feed lately? It's the facial hair removal treatment that gets rid of peach fuzz and claims to up your glow. You can buy an exfoliating blade and do it yourself or book in with a professional.
Worth a try? Molly-Mae Hague says no. When Grazia caught up with the star and asked her about her biggest beauty regret, she answered without hesitation - dermaplaning. Molly also shared her experience of the treatment in a video on her YouTube channel. The results weren't exactly what she had hoped for.
'I got dermaplaning not too long ago,' says Molly, 'and it's something that I wish I didn't do,' Molly told Grazia. 'You get told "oh, you need to get dermaplaning, the hair won't grow back" but it's like anything, once you start shaving your legs, the hair grows back thicker, and then you have to do it all the time. A bit of advice I would give, is think about it before you start it, because it's something you have to really keep up with.'
In her latest YouTube video, Molly speaks openly about how the in-salon treatment lead to unexpected regrowth, one of the downsides of hair removal. 'If you guys can see, I do have a little bit of a beard. Basically with the dermaplaning, I got into the habit of having a dermaplaning facial and my peach fuzz just grows back at rapid levels now. I basically have a full beard.'
Watch: Molly-Mae Hague Talks Dermaplaning
But, Molly reveals, regrowth isn' the only side-effect she has experienced. 'Getting quite a bit of peach fuzz on my face isn't a bad thing,' she says, 'but my make-up artistprobably gets quite annoyed with me when I get my dermaplaning done too soon because the makeup doesn't stick to your face when you've got literally no hair or texture on your skin, so it's finding the balance. I think it's like a bit of a throwaway thing, when you're in the salon and offered it you think "why not?" it can make your skin unbelievably smooth, but then actually you have to really keep up with it. Unless you get a razor and do it yourself but, I don't want to risk that.'
What is Dermaplaning?
'In the same way that shaving works, Dermaplaning uses a painless blade to gently scrape away facial hair (often referred to as 'peach fuzz') and rids the skin of any build-up of dead skin cells and dirt - all which can contribute to making your skin look dull or uneven.' says Nurse Lucy Phillips, skin specialist and founder of Kaizen Medical Cosmetic and Dermatology Clinic. In theory, it can also act as a gentle exfoliant, removing barriers to allow products to better penetrate the skin, meaning that glowy, hydrated, 'glass' skin.
Is Dermaplaning Dangerous?
During lockdown sales of dermaplaning tools rose as more and more of us got into at-home beauty treatments, but Nurse Phillips and Dr Maryam Zamani, founder of MZ Skin, warn of the side effects DIY dermaplaning.
'There are a range of common side effects, including breakouts, risk of infection, redness or discoloration, and irritation,' says Nurse Phillips. 'The procedure can be costly and, it only affects the top layers of your skin (the epidermis), so it isn't as effective as more intensive exfoliation treatments'.
'Dermaplaning needs to be done correctly for maximal benefit,' adds Dr Zamani. 'The biggest dangers come from DIY home treatments where the person using the blade may not know the best technique or method, causing a cut that could lead to inflammation or infection. I would also recommend not using this method if you have active acne or any other active skin condition'.
As with trying any treatments for the first time, it is also best to patch test, especially with areas of sensitive skin like the face. Dermaplaning can be an effective short term solution for removal of excess hair, but use sporadically to avoid overuse and potential scarring.
How Often Do You Need To Dermaplane?
The speed at which hair grows back can depend on the individual, but to give your skin time to recover in between sessions, its usually around 4 to 6 weeks.
What Other Cosmetic Treatments Are An Alternative To Dermaplaning?
If you're keen to try dermaplaning, try booking a salon for your first appointment, and for at home maintenance Nurse Philips recommends using a tool with a non abrasive blade. 'I recommend one like theVotary Magic Razor Wand, £20, I trust them to gently de-fuzz all the right areas.'
Waxing and threading are both gentle enough for small areas of skin on your face too, but for bright skin without the need for hair removal, Dr Zamani recommends using an AHA.
'Exfoliating acids can remove dead skin cells from your face and achieve similar results to dermaplaning. Products such as MZ Skin Cleanse & Clarify, £58, are formulated with AHA’s to deeply exfoliate the skin and leave your skin looking brighter and more radiant. This of course will not remove the velours hair on the face, but that can be accomplished by an experienced hand using blades'.
Nurse Phillips also recommends microneedling for better absorption of products like serums and moisturisers.
'Microneedling treatments like Morpheus 8 are a great alternative to dermaplanning. Morpheus 8 is an effective anti-aging treatment for people with fine lines, wrinkles, or sagging skin. It's also extremely beneficial for people with acne, acne scarring, or a rough skin texture. I also love the WOW At-Home kit, which includes their micro-needling roller that penetrates deeper into your skin, leaving you with a smooth, glowing complexion and body'.
Main image credit: Instagram @mollymae
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