One of the first things we tend to do when trying a new product is to swatch it on the back our hand and it give it a sniff. Why? Because, for the majority of us, we want to apply products on our skin that have an appealing aroma. Whether it’s rose, cucumber or a citrus kick – a delicate scent adds to the entire pampering experience. But what if said fragrance is actually a skin disruptor, and that first whiff of scent should be marked as a red flag?
‘Traditionally, fragrance was added to cosmetics to mask the scent of the base ingredients which can sometimes be unappealing and distinctly ‘medical’,’ explains Cosmetic Dermatologist, Dr Sam Bunting. ‘It can also be taken further to increase the aspirational factor of a beauty product, denoting it as ‘luxury’, which may allow the brand to apply a more luxury price tag. And finally, it may also conceal the aroma that arises when a product has been open for too long, and the ingredients are passed their best.’
So, does fragrance have any real functional purpose for our skin and should we be opting for fragrance-free products instead? Dr Sam Bunting tells all…
How does skin react to fragrance?
According to extensive research, fragrance is a common sensitising ingredient. In fact, as many as one in three reported health problems result from perfume in personal care and hygiene products. ‘Fragrance in skincare can be an irritant,’ says Dr Bunting, ‘which means it makes skin more reactive. In practise, this could manifest as burning, dryness or reddening of skin and difficulty using ingredients that do make a difference, like acids and retinoids.’
‘It is one of the most common allergens in personal care products and can produce severe dermatitis in the most susceptible.’ As well, it can cause more general symptoms like headaches, nasal and airway irritation.
Is there a difference between the effects of synthetic and natural fragrance on skin?
‘No – both can sensitise the skin,’ says Bunting. ‘It’s worth mentioning here that the term unscented is also a bit confusing. It means that masking ingredients may have been added to neutralise the scent from active ingredients, so that the end result is a product that doesn’t smell of anything. This ‘hidden’ fragrance can still be a problem.’
Should we opt for fragrance-free skincare products?
‘I honestly believe that everyone should avoid fragrance in skincare,’ advises Dr Bunting. ‘But I place special importance on avoiding it in those who have sensitive skin and suffer from inflammatory skin disorders, like eczema and rosacea - fragrance can trigger a nasty flare-up.’
‘It’s entirely possible to make skincare products without added fragrance and plenty of brands have embraced this approach. My Dr Sam’s range is universally formulated without fragrance and always will be (that’s how strongly I feel about it). And French pharmacy brands like Avene and La Roche-Posay tend to use minimal fragrance across their ranges.’
‘My advice - burn a candle in your bathroom if you want to enhance your self-care experience at home whilst doing your skin routine.’
Shop our curated edit of fragrance-free beauty products here:
Fragrance-free products
Dr Sam's Flawless Cleanser, £16
Gentle yet effective, this fragrance-free and non-comedogenic cleanser expertly removes all dirt and make-up without disrupting the skin's natural barrier.
Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant, £28
This leave-on exfoliant is a godsend for oily, congested skin. Salicylic acid works hard to remove dead skin cells and help clear blemishes.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum, £67
All of Drunk Elephant's products are fragrance-free, including this potent vitamin C serum that brightens and smooths skin.
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Ultra Dermallergo Serum, £28
Specifically formulated for sensitive skins, this hydrating serum locks in moisture and minimises the appearance of redness with soothing thermal spring water.
CeraVe Moisturising Cream, £5
Fragrance-free, non-comedogenic and hypoallergenic, this moisturiser is ideal for sensitive skins. Ceramides and hyaluronic acid support the skins barrier and retain moisture.
READ MORE: Beauty Lingo Decoded: What Is A Paraben-Free Product And Should We Be Using Them?