We've all been there – you rediscover a once loved beauty product that's been sitting at the back of your cupboard, reminisce about how well it worked and wonder if you can still get any use out of it. If this dance sounds familiar, you're not alone. According to a new survey conducted by make-up and skincare brand Rumi Cosmetiques, half (49%) of Brits are using expired beauty products and one in 10 (13%) of us have admitted to never throwing away our make-up. But the latest TikTok to go viral will make you think twice before resurrecting that old favourite again.
TikToker @BeastEater has been in the spotlight after sharing the dangerous effects of using expired skincare. In a video that has now amassed 32.5 million views and 1.9 million likes at the time of writing, the influencer sums up the order of events that led to her severe reaction, 'This is me putting expired acne/ dark spot treatment on my face and what it did to me. This is me after washing half of it off cause it was BURNING. Then I brought a face steamer and worsened my face causing a bacterial infection on my entire face. I ended up like this and this wasn't even the worst yet.'
'After being in so much pain I finally agreed to go to the hospital four days after. I won't bring any attention to the brand because this was 1000% my fault and I still absolutely adore the brand. I just want to be a voice and let everyone know to routinely check all make-up and skincare product expiration dates.'
In subsequent videos, BeastEater explains that her grievous facial chemical burn turned into an infection which began to spread throughout her blood stream and 'almost killed her'. Her traumatic experience and strong intent on raising awareness about the safe use of beauty products has been heard loud and clear. Followers have since jumped into her comment section to dissect all the risks involved with using expired beauty buys, and experts have weighed in, too.
'This TikTok should serve as a reminder to never take the risk with using out of date skincare as even one application can lead to severe skin reactions,' says Dr Raj Arora, NHS GP doctor and medical educator.
With all its serious implications, it may come as a surprise that most beauty products placed on the UK and EU markets don’t include official expiry dates. Instead, there are indicative guidelines to help you understand how long your cosmetics are fit for use. Which begs the question, why are companies falling short of true transparency and clearly marked labels around expiry when they are so important? It all comes down to government regulations on products supplied in the UK, which state that 'dates of minimum durability (best before date) is not mandatory for products with a minimum durability of more than 30 months. Instead, for these products a Period After Opening (PAO) symbol is required.'
Most unopened cosmetics have a shelf life of approximately three years after its manufacturing date, according to skincare brand Typology, meaning the majority of products on the market will bear a PAO, not a clear best before date. Herein lies the issue: the manufacturing date isn't always clear. It could have been sat on your shelf for way past the three year mark, or perhaps you picked it up at a sale and there's no way of knowing how long it has been in circulation prior to you purchasing it. With such a lack of clear signage and guidance around using products safely, the experts share their best practices to help minimise the risks associated with using beauty products beyond their sell-by dates.
Do beauty products expire?
All products expire, whether that's your skincare or make-up, so keeping track of their lifespan is not something that should be taken lightly. While unopened skincare products might last longer than opened ones, they do eventually expire even if not used.
Dr Arora says is it extremely important to check the use by date on skincare products. 'Your skin can react to skincare ingredients that have reached their expiration. Out of date skincare products can harbour bacteria, lead to oxidation of ingredients and a change of pH of the product, too. All of which can be harmful if applied to the skin.'
Most conventional cosmetics on the market contain preservatives which are effective at warding off bacterial growth, however with regular use they can naturally begin to break down over time and lead to bacterial growth which disrupts pH levels and reduces the potency and efficiency of products.
Applying expired products to the skin can result in skin irritation, breakouts, redness, burns and also the transfer of bacteria which can lead to serious skin infections as BeastEater has bravely shared.
How should we use signage on beauty products?
Given the murky government guidelines around proper labelling of products, it is not a surprise that the signage can leave us confused. Dr Sonakshi Khoran, GP and dermatology expert, explains, 'There are two dates to be mindful of: the PAO (period after opening) and best before.' The former is indicated on products with an image of an open jar and number, and the latter features an hourglass symbol.
'The PAO clock starts ticking the minute you open the product because you start to introduce microorganisms, and this is different to the best before date (especially when it is still sealed and sat in a warehouse – which may be much longer than PAO). While the best before date may be a year away, the PAO could be months away. The PAO always takes precedence over the best before date. So, as you open a product, you should keep the PAO in mind and discard the product once the window closes. Best before dates will refer to the shelf life of a product when unopened and at room temperature.'
How to spot expired beauty products
If in doubt, you can rely on a few tests to determine if your beauty buys are still fit for purpose. Dr Khoran advises checking for 'funky smells, a change in consistency, a difference in its effect on the skin, any changes in the packaging like warping and expanding, a shift in texture and any presence of mould.'
The types of products to be extra cautious with includes mascara, which runs the risk of introducing bacteria to the eyes, sunscreens, which can lose their protective efficacy over time, acne or pigmentation treatments and vitamin C serums which oxidises.
If you notice an expired products has begun to cause swelling, redness, irritation, burning or pain, it is likely you may be reacting to the expired product and it is important to seek medical attention immediately.
Sameeha Shaikh is Grazia UK's Beauty Writer, working across all categories to bring you insights on the latest trends, industry news and the products you need to know about, viral or not (most probably viral).
Main image: TikTok @beasteater
