9 Things Your Facialist Wishes You Knew

Updated on17 09 2020

Coming away from your facialists chair you're refreshed and glowing and your skin feels deeply cleansed. If only our day to day at home cleanse could leave us feeling the same.

We asked our favourite facialists and other cleansing pros where you could be going wrong with your cleansing routine, so that you can make that twice a day routine really count.

Here are eight cleansing rules to live by.

1. You can't just wash and go

While cleansing daily full stop might seem like the best antedote to congestion and breakouts, it can actually be a detriment to your skin if you don’t rinse your face properly. Nichola Joss, facialist to the stars, says: ‘One of the biggest mistakes I see my clients making is with cleansing.'

'When you cleanse the skin and especially if using a foaming or milk cleansing product, make sure you remove all of the cleanser. If you leave cleansing particles in or on the skin it can cause disruption and congestion which in turn can and will lead to breakouts and further blemishes.’ And no one wants that! So she advises ‘Make sure you remove all cleanser thoroughly and then splash face with a facial water, mist or toner which helps to restore PH levels freshen top layers if skin and improve pores.’ Et viola – squeaky-clean skin!

2. Don't forget those tricky to reach areas

As well as removing all your cleanser thoroughly making sure you don't miss a spot to begin with. The trickiest to reach areas are actually the most spot-prone. Pro facialist Sarah Chapman explains 'There to is a patch under the chin, for example which often gets missed as we slide hands from face to the neck, this can therefore be blackhead prone. The sides of nose and nose wings also require careful attention, as well as behind the ears to avoid blackheads and dead cell build up.'

3. Your face cloth needs cleaning every day, too

You wouldn’t wash your clothes in a filthy machine would you? So why would you use a congested cloth to wipe your face? So Nichola advises cleaning your face cloth after every use. ‘Bacteria builds quickly on moist cloths and especially if they also have make-up, daily pollution and product mixed in, so it’s essential not just to rinse it after each use, but to clean it thoroughly.’ To keep yours clean she advises ‘use a gentle organic anti-bacterial hand wash then rinse it in hot water afterwards. I keep 2/3 cleansing cloths and rotate them daily using a fresh one.’

Alternatively you could invest in an electronic cleanser like the FOREO Luna [below right] which you can rinse easily under the tap. As well as refining and firming skin while cleansing it has added anti-aging benefits.

Eve Lom muslin cleansing cloths, £14, FOREO Luna, from £99,

4. You CAN overwash your face

Different dermatologists and experts have differeing views on exactly how often you should wash your face (whether it’s the AM and PM rule or just at night), but they do agree that over-washing can irritate your skin. To feel like your skin is squeeky-clean there's no need to be rough. Inge Theron Spa Junkie and founder of Face Gym warns: ‘Do not “overclean” and peel your skin, this depletes the natural oil needs to regulate the skin, often you can get a perioral dermatitis because from doing this.’

Also be sure to stay clear of cleansers that are too astringent (even if your skin is oily) as they can cause sensitivity, dehydration and dryness. If your cleanser leaves your face feeling tight afterwards, it's too harsh. No matter what your skin type, stick to a cleanser which gently removes dirt, makeup and pollution. Oil-based balms are great for skin on the dryer side, as they nourish while cleansing.

5. Don't skimp on exfoliating

Nichola cannot preach enough that ‘it’s essential to understand the importance of not skipping out any skincare routine stages.’ She explains that exfoliating is especially important if ‘you are using corrective peptides serums acids and anti ageing treatment serums, as they will penetrate deeper into skin if the top dead skin is removed.' Exfoliating as part of your daily routine will also improve your skin's tone and texture in general but help keep it looking younger. Nichola explains that it 'encourages good cell regeneration, keeping upper layers youthful bouncy and smooth.'

6. Unless you're sunshine bound

While, as Nicholas says, exfoliating is great for deep cleansing and sloughing away dead skin cells, it can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so it's best to lay off your exfoliating cleanser a few days before a hot holiday. Inge says: 'do not do any deep exfoliation before you spend a weekend in the sun, this makes your skin much more sensitive to UV-rays and can cause hyperpigmentation.'

7. Face masks aren’t just for problem skin

Even if your skin woes are minimal, taking the time to apply a deep-cleansing mask is an important step in your cleansing routine to keep it looking its brightest. Lou Riby, Managing Director of Elemental Herbology, says 'cleanse masks are not just for oily, combination skin they are effective on all skin types for brightening the skin. Perfect before a night out.' Try fitting in a mask to your routine up to three times a week to see results. We like Balance Me's Radiance Mask or Grown Alchemists Deep Cleansing Masque as a quick skin pick-me-up. While Mizon's sensitive peeling mask is great for zapping dead skin for when your complexion is a little on the grey side.

Mizon Apple Smoothie Peeling Gel, £15; Grown Alchemists Deep Cleansing Masque, £24; Balance Me's Radiance Mask, £18

8. Cleansing brushes don't suit every skin type

While high-tech cleansers have many benefits - gently does it. Cleansing brushes and peeling products are a no-no for sufferers of sensitive skin conditions like rosacea or couperose.

Try a gentle alternative like the FOREO Luna [above], which comes in three types including one for ultra-sensitive skin, and has the same really deep cleansing properties without being harsh and agrevating your skin.