We may have been looking back to the '90s for fashion cues in recent seasons but, when it comes to brows, we’re firmly fixated on this decade’s bold and bushy trend. However, with a modern brow, it's not one size fits all – they key is finding the perfect shape and grooming technique to suit you. Thankfully, makeup artist Lisa Potter Dixon is on hand with all the brow know-how you need. Consider this your practical, no-nonsense guide to your best brows ever.
The Brow Medic
Got a brow emergency? Look no further than these expert fixes.
BROW SOS: Over-plucked Eyebrows
‘Over-plucked brows should grow back,' Lisa reassures us. 'Use a brow serum like RevitaBrow Advanced, £58, to encourage growth and leave them alone for a few months.' If the hairs have deserted you for good, you can pencil them in or book in for microblading, where hair-like strokes are tattooed on for a long-lasting effect. Just be sure to do your research and go to someone reputable.
BROW SOS: Sparse Hairs
‘Get them tinted,' says Lisa. 'This makes a real difference on even the thinnest brows, as the tint dyes every hair from root to tip making them look fuller instantly.' f you want to fake the look of hairs, try ‘makeup microblading’, use a pen or pencil like Benefit Precisely, My Brow, £21.50, with an ultra-fine tip to draw on fine hair-like strokes. 'This will keep your brows looking natural,' says Lisa
BROW SOS: Grooming Newbie
'If you’ve never touched your brows and think now is the time, go and see an eyebrow expert,' advises Lisa. 'Don’t try and tweeze them yourself as it can very easily end in disaster!' Lisa recommends heading to your local brow bar and getting them threaded or waxed (for the latter, try Benefit counters nationwide). Threading is ideal for anyone with sensitive skin, whilst waxing is super quick making it great for anyone with very thick, stubborn hair.
Throw Some Shapes
When it comes to shaping your brows, Lisa warns that you should 'always leave brow shaping to the professionals! The end.'
If you do spot a stray hair, either between your brows or underneath, then pluck just the stray. Don’t try to alter the shape of your brows at home because one wrong move could leave you looking surprised, angry or worse. You can, however, use makeup to shape your brows and keep them looking groomed between appointments. Faking a straighter 'fashion’ brow, or the hot-right-now feathery brow is a fun way to change up your look. 'If you want a straight brow, draw slightly under your natural arch with a pencil or for a pretty feathery brow, draw fine hair like stokes upwards at the inside of the brow,' advises Lisa.
For everyday makeup application, Lisa advises mapping your brows to see where they should start, arch and end. Here’s her 3-step guide:
- Take a make-up brush and hold it straight up at the outside edge of your nose, where the handle passes between your eyes is where your brow on that side should start. Repeat on the other side. If it starts in the right place it will make your nose look slimmer.
- For the arch, hold the brush from the outside edge of the nose and angle it through the centre of the eye, (making sure you’re looking straight ahead). This is where your brow should arch. If it arches in the right place, your eyes will look bigger and more awake.
- Hold the brush at the outside edge of the nose, and angle it so the handle passes through the outside corner of your eye - this is where your brow should end. Get it right and it will lift the appearance of your cheekbones and add structure to your face. Repeat all three steps on the other side.
Tool Up!
Not sure whether you need a pen, pencil, gel, all three or something else entirely? Here is your guide to finding the right brow groomer for you…
PEN: Best for creating real-looking hairs
A fine-nib pen is great for creating the look of realistic hair for a more feathery effect, notes Lisa. 'A super fine tip means you can draw tiny strokes throughout the hair in seconds,' she adds.
PENCIL: Best for Beginners
'Pencils are my favourites,'says Lisa. 'They tend to be super easy to use, plus they adhere to the skin
GEL POT: Best for fuller brows
Want a full-on brow look? 'Gels are brilliant for this,' says Lisa. 'They also tend to be extremely long wearing. Just be careful not to use too much as this can make your eyebrows look stuck on.'
POWDER: Best for a natural look
The softness of powder gives the brows a pretty, natural finish. 'Glide the powder through and then brush with a spoolie for an everyday brow look,' suggests Lisa. 'Try using a slightly lighter shade at the front of the brow, and a shade to match your brow hair from the arch to the end, for a subtle, ombre effect that is super flattering.'
MASCARA: Best for speed grooming
'Brow mascaras are my holy grail of brow products,' raves Lisa. 'Use a tinted brow mascara on its now for speed grooming or a fibre-packed version to add fullness. A clear brow mascara will set the hairs after you’ve filled in any gaps.' For added volume and to coat each hair from root to tip, brush from the outside in to create volume and the inside out to groom.
SOAP: Best for bushier brows
Want to make your brows mega bushy? Use soap! Simply take a solid soap and using a damp spoolie work the product through the hairs. An old Hollywood trick, it gives brows a full, fluffy effect and lasting hold.