There is no doubt about it - the modelling industry is undergoing a tide change in casting. When previously models were picked for their hip-skimming locks and uniform beauty statements, the catwalk is now celebrating quirky charisma and idiosyncrasy. And so, where choppy crops, graphic bangs and bowl cuts didn’t dare tread before, they now pave the way.
‘It’s been happening increasingly over the last few seasons, with more diversity of race, age and size than we’ve ever seen before. Models like Lineisy Montero, Mica Arganaraz and Ruth Bell are blazing the trail, and finally it feels like we’re breaking the chains of long-hair conformity’, says mane man Sam McKnight.
Arguably the most sought after hair stylist in the industry, Sam was tasked with creating six of the most sumptuous styles around – a walk in park considering he has tended to the tresses of the some of the biggest names around, and masterminded the famed Chanel ‘croissant’ style.
The each to their own sentiment was echoed at LFW AW16 where at Topshop and House of Holland, hair was styled to be the best – and most extreme – version of its natural self. Case in point: black hair wasn’t brushed straight or gelled flat, it was blown up and out. Both Peyton Knight and Katie Moore ditched their long and luscious locks for something with a bit more edge – the former a boyishly cool bowl cut, and the latter a graphic, high-octane chop.
Casting directors are now looking for a diverse cross section of girls that represent society and phrases such as ‘we’re letting models individuality shine’ were oft heard behind the scenes of shows.
We like to think of this as the hair equivalent to the no make-up make-up trend. It’s inclusive and compelling, and it makes a convincing case for, well… coming just as you are, or whoever you want to be.
Curls! Curls! Curls!
“Oversized, textured curls are a great way to sex up shoulder-length hair,” says Sam. “The more wayward and wild the better.” Achieve added definition with Bumble and Bumble Curl Concious Defining Crème, £23.50.
Top crop
A shaggy, rocky, Debbie Harry inspired bob lends an instant edge to this season’s ladylike prints and silhouettes. In need of some extra texture and oomph? Pureology Pure Volume Instant Levitation Mist, £8, will sort you out sharp-ish.
Oh boy!
From Ruth Bell and Kriss Gottschalk’s buzz cuts, to the flurry of girls storming the catwalks at this season’s menswear shows, gender-bending is where it’s at right now. Get involved by sweeping your hair into a masculine, comb-over. Do it we dare you.
Water wear
“Slick, fresh-from-the shower hair is sleek, chic, surprisingly wearable and easily achieved with a squirt of leave-in conditioner by the pool,” says Sam. We love Sachajuan Leave-In Conditioner, £22.
New Wave
“Give glamourous seventies waves an unkempt, outdoorsy texture for a modern take on this much-referenced decade,” advises Sam. For fast and easy bounce and swish we swear by Oribe Gold Lust Shampoo, £46.
All Tied Up
“For a fresh incarnation of the retro sixties up-do spritz hair liberally with salt spray to lend it a textured, tough-girl edge,” recommends Sam. The overarching effect? Powerful, statement hair that sits happily against each and every spring look.